D43-45 Rangiro, Tuamotu Islands
Rangiroa is the largest atoll of French Polynesia and one of the largest in the world after Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands and Huvadhu in the Maldives. The atoll has a flattened elliptic shape with 80km in length, a width ranging from 5 to 32 km and a circumference totaling up to 200km. The lagoon has a maximum depth of 35m and its surface is 1,446 sq km.
Rangiroa has an area of 79 sq km and about 2,500 inhabitants mostly living in its two main villages, namely Avatoru and Tiputa located on two separate motu at the Tiputa Pass. It is famous for its vineyard, vast, stunning lagoon and world-class scuba diving at the two passes teaming with marine life like dolphins and sharks.
Jan 11 I got up early and watched Odyssey passing through the Tiputa Pass shortly after 6am. I joined a full day trip to the famous Blue Lagoon (100 Euro pp) with 42 other passengers from Odyssey. We first headed to the Avatoru Pass for drift snorkelling. The water is clear with plenty of fish and coral. After this, we had an hour-ride to the Blue Lagoon dotted with picturesque idyllic numerous islets. It is also a nursery for black-tipped reef sharks. We sat in the shallow warm water watching sharks and fish circling around us. I snorkeled for a while and found countless colourful clams and some big fishes hiding in the rocks. Before lunch, we had a guided eco-walk to the next island to look out for lori, an endemic bird of French Polynesia. We spotted three. We also encountered many sting rays in the lagoon.We then had a wonderful Polynesian lunch with BBQ chicken, cerviche, grilled parrot fish and freshly baked coconut bread.
Around 2:45pm we set off for the Green Lagoon on our way back to the pier. Here we had coffee, tea and local cookies. The greatest surprise here was the discovery of eels right next to the pier. I took photos of a dozen of eels, big and small. Wonderful! We took the 6pm tender back to the boat. I had a wonderful excursion!
Jan 12 Today I joined a full day Reef Island tour (100 Euro pp). We had a small group of nine and set off at 9 am. It only took an hour to arrive at an island where we enjoyed solitude and beauty. We were alone without any other boat in sight. There are lots of black-tipped reef sharks. We snorkeled in the coral garden and I saw countless beautiful clams. Before lunch, our guide took us on a walk to the ocean side of the island. After walking for 50 m we began to discover a total different lunar landscape with dark volcanic rock jagged by erosion forming some natural pools for swimming. After lunch, I sat in the water watching sharks and fish swimming around me.
We departed the lagoon before 3pm heading to the aquarium near the Tiputa Pass. Unfortunately, the motor broke down around 3:20pm. The guide called his father and sister for help. Unfortunately, they seemed unclear about our location and after an hour, no boat was in sight. He exchanged phone calls with his sister who finally knew where to look for us. Her boat arrived just before 5 pm and we jumped into her boat. She would wait in our boat for her father to come and pull it to a port for repair. We would still have time to snorkel in the the aquarium. But most of the passengers seemed exhausted, they wanted to return to the ship. What a pity!
I would have had a tranquil and perfect day at the reef island and the aquarium had it not been for the disruption. Anyway, plans are only ideas and I have to take life as it comes along. We were back to the ship around 6 pm. In the evening, I found a group to go to the aquarium at 8:30am the next day for 40 USD pp.
Jan 13 Odyssey would be leaving at noon for Tahiti and the last tender was at 11 am. I took the first tender at 8am and joined a boat with 11 other passengers for snorkeling at the aquarium. We swam with many schools of fish and half a dozen sharks for an hour. The guide was energetic and tried to get the group swimming together. He kept urging us to follow him. As a result, I had hardly time to stop to watch the amazing underwater world below me. We took the 10am tender back to the ship.
I was at the bow to watch the ship navigating through the Tiputa Pass. The colours of the lagoon are breath-taking. I also saw a dozen of dolphins swimming next to the ship. On the way to Tahiti, the Captain broke the bad news that the ship would not be going to Cook Islands and Niue owing to bad weather that would render tender operation impossible. Instead, we would spend two more days in Tahiti and in Moorea. We were all disappointed as Cook Islands and Niue are highlights for island lovers.
Day 46-48 Tahiti, Society Islands
Jan 14 I joined two morning exercise classes from 8:30 to 9 am. When I was doing the last stretch and pulled myself up, I had a near fall as my right leg was not strong enough to support my weight. I found myself landed softly on the floor a metre away from the yoga mat without pain or broken bone. But when I was walking to the market an hour later, I experienced pain in the hip and knee. I guessed I might have pulled the muscle or tendon or hurt the bones. The city centre is small centred around the market and the cathedral. After visiting the market, I went to the cathedral and sat through the service at noon. There were over 30 followers at the church and the priest with long hair and a strong voice. I managed to walk to the new mall and found a Japanese stall selling Japanese goods. Alas, a noodle cup is sold for 6 USD (in HK it might cost 2-3 USD). Everything is so expensive in French Polynesia!
I spent the afternoon resting in my cabin. I tried to massage the hip and knee with oil from Thailand. It seemed to work. Ilana disembarked in the evening and flew back to Israel. After dinner I attended Part II of Janette’s wonderful talk on her Pan-American Highway journey. If I were young, I would love to join her overland journey provided I could find someone to drive a camper-van/motor-home.
Jan 15 I didn’t want to walk too much. So I took a bus to Teahupoo, the surfing venue of the 2024 Olympic Games. I was told Bus 31 would arrive around 9am. I was at the stop by 8:40am but did not know the exact location. Then I was told it had just departed. I waited 100 minutes for the next one that arrived at 10am. By the time I arrived at Taravao, the connecting Bus 23 to Teahupoo just pulled away from the terminal at 11:30am. I waited till 12:20pm for the next bus. Alas, the whole morning was spent on waiting for a bus and on the bus!
The ride to Teahupoo is nice and different from the one to Tautira. The coastline is prettier with some lodges. I spent over an hour in Teahupoo looking at the beach and waves. I took the 2pm bus to Taravao and Bus 30 to Papeete: the whole journey took well over two hours! By the time I got back to the ship, it was about 4:30 pm. I have travelled around Tahiti Nui twice on bus. A bus ride provides me with a slow but interesting way to get to know the place and feel the pulse of the Tahitians. There is always loud music and singing in the bus! It was nice to see passengers greeting each other and the bus driver knew exactly where the passengers would get off.
Jan 16 Do – Nothing Lazy Day
Originally, I planned to visit the Museum of Tahiti and The Islands which is 16 km away. The bus would take over half an hour followed by a 10-minute walk from the main road. As I still experienced pains in the hip and knee, I decided I should give it a miss and let my body heal by itself. Odyssey set sail at 5pm.
Day 49 – 51 Moorea, Society Islands
Jan 17 By breakfast time, Odyssey was already moored in Cook’s Bay. Today, Amanda rented a car and we had a pleasant drive. The round-island route is approximately 65 km. There was not much traffic on the road. We made a number of photo stops. As it was cloudy, we could not have full view of Tahiti from Moorea. We decided to have a smoothie at the bottom of Magic Mountain. Suddenly the weather changed drastically: the sky was darkened and the wind was howling. The weather forecast had predicted thunderstorm and heavy rain today. Hence Amanda decided to be cautious and we drove straight back to Cook’s Bay. She returned to car and we returned to the ship. In the afternoon, the weather improved and there was sunshine again. I had a lovely round-island drive and did not feel like going out in the afternoon. I had a peaceful time reading in my cabin.
Jan 18 Today I joined a half day snorkelling trip (60 USD). It was cloudy when I got up. Luckily the weather improved. The boat picked us up from the pier at 8:30am and we sailed past the Opunohu Bay where we watched dolphins for some 15 minutes. Great fun!
Water in the lagoon is crystal clear, calm displaying with an amazing range of turquoise colours. I was disappointed when the boat took us back to Motu Tiahura where we joined a Polynesian festival on December 28. This time, we spent about three hours wandering around and snorkeling in the lagoon. As the tide was higher and I had a new full-face mask, I enjoyed the drift snorkelling experience. I saw a big reef shark, a cute puffer fish and a lot of coral fish in addition to many black-tipped reef baby sharks and two large sting rays near the beach. I was back on the ship in time for a late lunch. I felt lazy and tired: I had an afternoon lap despite the fine weather in the afternoon!
Jan 19 I decided to go ashore for a walk before the ship set sail at 2 pm. I walked around near the pier. First I went into a boutique and had a nice chat with the owner who came from France. The merchandise (dress, jewelry, pottery, ceramic etc) is stylish but expensive. The owner admits that everything is expensive on the island. But she likes its tranquility, life style and natural beauty. Then I went to the up-market Cook’s Bay Hotel next to the pier. I thought of having a vegetarian lunch. But I did not find anything I fancied. I therefore took a tender at noon back to the ship for a simple lunch. Our long sea days began at 2 pm when Odyssey set sail to Tonga. Farewell French Polynesia!
