Footsteps of the Buddha with Plum Village

My first pilgrimage to India and Nepal (November 10 to 19, 2017) was organised by the Buddhist Charity of Hong Kong. In seven days, I visited Varanasi, Bodhgaya, Gridhakuta Hill (Vulture Peak), Venuvana (Bamboo Forest), ruins of Nalanda, Vaishali, Kushinagar and Lumbini. I am keen to go on pilgrimage again after having taking refuge of the three gems in 2023. With right conditions, I joined a 14-day pilgrimage “Footsteps of the Buddha” led by Dharmacharya Shantum Seth of the Buddha Path and joined by 8 monastics of the Deer Park Monastery California and Plum Village.

The Eight Great Places in Buddhism

Gautama Buddha (c. 563 or 480 BCE) had identified four pilgrimage sites for his followers. They are Lumbini (his birthplace), Bodhgaya (where Buddha attained enlightenment), Sarnath (where Buddha delivered his first sermon and Kushinagar (where Buddha passed away). Buddhist texts written later written by Buddha’s followers mentioned four more sites namely Rajgir (a major city of ancient India), Vaishali (capital of the Vajjian Republic of ancient India), Sravasti (where Buddha spent the largest amount of time) and Sankassa (where Buddha descended to earth from Tavatimsa heaven). There are other pilgrimage places in India and Nepal also connected with the life of the Buddha that are mostly located in the Gangetic plain (Eight most important sites are indicated in the map)

February 8 – My flight from Leh to Delhi was delayed and I landed in Delhi after 2:30 pm. I had booked a night in a hotel for one night before joining the pilgrim group on February 9. Shantum’s office met me on arrival and taken to to the hotel. To my horror, the hotel had cancelled my booking though I had been already charged. I was furious. Luckily Bina of Shantum’s office found me another hotel nearby where I had to pay another 5,000 rupees. I had a spacious self-contained flat in a nice residential gated area and had a good sleep.

February 9 Delhi

I made my way to Crowne Plaza to meet up with the group at 11 am. I met Sue from the US who stayed in the same hotel. We had a large group comprising 63 pilgrims with 13 nationalities, 7 monastics from the Deer Park and Sr Trai Neighm whom I met in the New Hamlet, Plum Village Bordeaux last November. Shantum, the organiser and leader, was supported by Jahdish, Jackie, and Santosh. We had a dozen Japanese pilgrims and Rahul was their translator.

Around noon, the hotel lobby was swarmed with passionate and enthusiastic pilgrims. We were divided into two bus groups (yellow and orange) and the only place to visit in Delhi is Gandhi Smriti where Mahatma Gandhi spent his last 144 days and was martyred. We queued up to register before boarding our bus. Sue who was in front of me, missed a step and fell while looking for the bus. I tried to find Bina and got ice for Sue. When we arrived at Gandhi Smriti, the museum staff managed to find Sue a wheelchair. Being a nurse, she knew what needed to be done. We walked mindfully to the location where Gandhi was martyred and sat on the grass to meditate. Before lunch, we had time to walk around in silence and look at the murals depicting Gandhi’s life. We gathered after lunch for a briefing and had time to introduce ourselves and our purpose/reason for joining this pilgrimage. Though I could not remember all the names and faces, I was impressed to meet several couples and mothers and their children taking this spiritual journey hand in hand. We also had time for a quick tour of the museum with Gandhi’s bedroom and study, and plenty of historical photos and artefacts of the life of the father of India. After dinner we returned to the hotel and met my nice roommate Mirella from the US.

February 10-12 Sarnath & Varanasi (Clarks Varanasi)

We departed for the airport around 8:30am. The flight was on schedule and we arrived at the Varanasi International Airport after 2pm. In 2017, I was bumped off by Jet Airways together with the HK guide and another pilgrim. As a result, I did not arrive till dinner time and missed the visit to Sarnath. I am impressed by the new/renovated airport which looks modern and user-friendly. We proceeded to the Mulanganda Kuti Vihara Monastery where Buddha upon enlightenment gave the first sermon to five monks. The Vihara was built in 1931 with financial support from Mary Robinson Foster under the supervision of Dharmapala, a Sri Lankan monk who was instrumental in the revival of Buddhism in India. I first walked around the bodhi tree and the statue of Buddha with his first disciples. There were many pilgrims from Sri Lanka and Thailand. The Turning the Wheel of Dharma (Pali – Dhammacakkappavattana) Sutra is inscribed in Pali, Sanskrit, Chinese, English, Japanese, Tibetan, Korean etc. I chanted in Chinese before watching a group of monks chanting during circumambulation. It was atmospheric and reverent.

There is a daily chanting of the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutra at 6pm inside the Vihara. Shantum arranged the group to sit close to the platform. As I arrived late, I sat with the pilgrims from Sri Lanka at the back with full view of the temple and the devotees. Owing to my hip problem, I cannot sit on the floor. People around me kindly found me a stool. The insides are completely covered with most beautiful pastel-colored frescos by Japanese artist Kosetsu Nosu depicting scenes of the Buddha. As I had learnt Pali for my Master of Buddhist Studies in 2020-21, I was able to join in and chant the sutra in Pali for the first time of my life. It was a mesmerizing experience.

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We set off at 5:30am on February 11 for the Ganges. This was my second visit to the timeless Varanasi (formerly known as Kashi) situated on the left bank of the Ganges. This iconic and the spiritual capital of India with 88 ghats most of which are for bathing and the puja ceremony, is one of the oldest cities in the world. The place was already packed with Hindu pilgrims who performed religious rituals and bathing in the river and dozens of boats cruising on the river. We took two boats and first sailed downstream towards the bridge. Then we sailed upstream passing the colorful ghats with and watching flurry of activities in all directions. I noticed more and bigger boats, people and birds than in 2017. Hundreds of Hindus were lining in front of Ganga Dwara (Gateway of Corridor that connects Kashi Vishwanath Temple with Ghats of the Ganges). Our boat moved closer to the shore when approaching the Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat, the only two cremation ghats. The sights of enormous piles of wood and a head-shaved man watching the wood in flames reminded me of death and impermanence. Varanasi is forever a symbol of life, vitality, force and death.

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We returned to the hotel for breakfast. Afterwards, we went to the Deer Park which I have heard endless times. It was evocative when I went into the park and saw the awesome massive Dhamek Stupa (43.6m high with a diameter of 28m) marking the location where the Buddha gave his first teaching to his first five disciples. Shantum chose a quiet and cool spot under a gigantic tree facing the stupa. We listened with keen interest to his talk about history and events associated with Buddha at this site and Thay with whom he came on pilgrimage three times since 1988. We also meditated for half an hour. Given my hip problem, I had brought a foldable chair with me. Unfortunately, I had nerve pains and could hardly sit still. Eventually I found a concrete to sit on.

After meditation, we followed Shantum on a tour of the remains of the Mulanganda Kuti Vihara Monastery including the Buddha’s hut and an Asoka pillar. Then we visited the Archaeological Museum to see many well-preserved sculptures including the famous Preaching Buddha, a 5th century sculpture of the Sarnath school of Buddhist art. It is a most beautiful serene and humane image of the Buddha filled with wisdom, compassion and loving kindness. Shantum said Thay would sit and meditate in front of the Preaching Buddha. We did the same for five minutes.

After the museum, we stopped by a silk making workshop. It was the first time that I learnt about the Kashi / Banarasi silk saree known for its gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery. For Indians, it is a symbol of grandeur and nobility. But in modern India, this handicraft is disappearing: the shop-owner tries to preserve this heritage by employing a couple of weavers who produce the silk saree with the loom.

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February 12-14 Bodhgaya (The Royal Residency)

Bodhgaya is about 250km from Varanasi. We set off after 8am. The road conditions have not improved much since 2017. The toll highway seems half-built and below international standard. This time we spent over eight hours on the road instead of seven hours in 2017 due to heavy Kumbh mela/festival pilgrim traffic. Luckily we had a nice delicious Thai vegetarian lunch and clean toilets in a Thai temple. After settling in the hotel, we were divided into five share groups. I joined a BIPOC (Black Indigenous People of Color) group with participants from divergent background. We shared our feelings and thoughts of the pilgrimage. Mirella and I went to bed early as we would depart for meditation at Mahabodhi temple/tree at 5:30am the following day.

Most members joined the early morning meditation session on February 13. We took tuk-tuk to the Mahabodhi Temple, a massive complex and a most revered and sacred Buddhist site. The full moon shining over the temple was mesmerizing and sacred. The temple ground packed with pilgrims was bustling and fairly noisy as the Kagyupa sect was holding a ceremony presided by a Rinpoche with several large tents set up for their pilgrims. Shantum found a quieter spot facing the full moon between the shikhara towers for the group to sit down in silence. Again I had trouble sitting on my foldable chair. At the end, I practiced standing meditation. Though it was crowded in 2017, it was relatively quiet as groups of pilgrims mostly from Sri Lanka and Southeast Asia were sitting quietly in groups or individually reciting sutras in low voices or meditating. We left after 7 am and returned to the hotel for breakfast.

We returned to the Temple after breakfast and stayed there for about three hours. The complex was much quieter with fewer pilgrims. Shantum showed us the temple and key spots all of which I had visited in 2017. What I enjoyed most this time was when we sat under a bodhi tree at the southwestern corner of the Muchalinda Sarovar Holy Pond. There was no noise except the sound of wind blowing and dry leaves. Shantum talked about Buddha’s enlightenment under the bodhi tree and we had time for meditation. I sat comfortably on concrete at the bottom of the tree enjoying my breathing with nothing on my mind. We returned to the hotel after 1 pm for lunch.

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After lunch, Mirella and I had a short nap before setting off to Uruvela village where Sujata offered rice/milk to the ascetic Gotama. We first stopped in a plot of sangha land where Thay planted a bodhi tree seventeen years ago. Next we walked through the village which is tidy and clean to reach expansive fields where the villagers grow padi and vegetables. From the field we could see the hills where the ascetic Gotama once lived and practiced in a cave. We were joined by a dozen of children who looked healthy and energetic. It was almost sunset when we reached the Sujata Stupa. Santosh’s family lives not far from the stupa and we had a warm reception meeting his mom, wife, sisters and children. We were served the rice/milk that Buddha had received 2,600 years ago. His daughter sang for us and in return we sang songs of Plum Village. Our amazing evening ended with us watching the full moon rising behind the fields.

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February 14-16 Rajgir (Indo Hokke Hotel)

While a group went to meditate in the Mahabodhi Temple at 5:30 am, Mirella and I slept in and took a leisure tuk-tuk temple hopping trip at 8am. There are at least 29 Buddhist temples and monasteries in Bodhgaya. We only had time to stop at the Great Buddha Statue (built by the Japanese), Royal Bhutanese Monastery, Metta Buddharam Temple (Thailand) and Tergar Monastery (Tibetan). We were able to go inside the Bhutanese and Tibetan monasteries to appreciate their respective architectural and cultural styles, as well as religious artefacts.

We left the hotel around 10 am and drove 12 km to the Pragbodhi Cave where Gotama Buddha lived as an ascetic while searching for a path to enlightenment. It was hot. After getting off the bus, we had to walk about 15 minutes to reach the caves on a steep cliffside. A large group of Bhutanese pilgrims on puja whom we had met before at the Mahabodhi Temple was there. We had to queue to go into the small cave which surprisingly can hold about a dozen people. We sat inside for guided meditation with Shantum for five minutes. It was about 1 pm when we departed for Rajgir which is 65km away.

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Rajgir, “The City of Kings”, is an ancient city and university town. It was the capital of the Haryanka dynasty (established by King Bimbisara), Pradyota dynastry and Brihadratha dynasty and the powerful Mauryan Empire. There are still ruins of the ancient cyclopean wall surrounding Rajgir, capital of Kingdom of Magadha, which was the scene of many important events in the Buddha’s time. Buddha had close relationship with King Bimbisara who built Venuvan (Bamboo Grove) for the Buddha and his sangha to spend their first rain retreat.

After lunch and a short rest, we proceeded to Venuvan which was mentioned in many scriptures. The sun was setting with soft and enchanting lights coming through the bamboo forests. We set down meditating for a while before listening to Shantum’s stories. It got dark quickly and we had to leave. I loved watching the street night scenes with numerous food stalls. Though the hotel was not far from the town centre, Shantum advised us not to wander around at night on our own.

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On February 13, we departed for Griddhakuta Peak (Vulture Peak) at 6am with packed breakfast in order to catch sunrise from the peak. I walked slowly and watched the gorgeous sunrise on our way to the peak. By the time we arrived at the Mulagandhakuti (the small courtyard where the Buddha sat to meditate and preached the dharma), most of the sunrise watchers were gone. The monastics performed a brief ritual in front of the Mulagandhakuti and the whole sangha bowed and sat together at this holy site in silence. We dispersed when other visitors arrived. I continued to sit and meditate close to the Mulagandhakuti before joining Shantum’s talk on the Buddha’s life and events at this location.

This was my second visit to Vulture Peak and I had was an amazing experience. I did not experience particular joy in 2017 as the platform was full of noisy tourists. We stayed briefly after reciting the Heart Sutra. I was then not a Buddhist and had little knowledge about the Buddha’s life and teachings and the importance and significance of this spot. This time, I sat (like Buddha 2600 years ago) in silence, bathing in the morning sun, gazing at the beautiful landscape below and mountains beyond, and enjoying the tranquility. I could visualise the scene when Buddha delivered the Lotus Sutra, turning the Second Dharma Wheel.

We had just over an hour’s free time till 11 am. I followed the path leading up to the Peace Stupa on the top of Bao Son Ratnagiri. The 400-m high stupa built by Japan in 1969, is one of the 80 Peace Stupa built around the world. I remembered I had taken the same path to the top in 2017. On the way back to the carpark, I took time to look for “the Stone House” (where Buddha stayed and meditated), the Boar’s Cave, Ananda Cave, Sariputra Cave, Maudgalyayana meditation cave, and Saptapani Cave as these names made sense to me now. I walked slowly (owing to the hip problem) and mindfully: I was following the footsteps of the Buddha and walking with the Buddha.

It was about noon when we left the park to return to the hotel for lunch. We stopped at two archaeological sites. In the first site, we looked at a long and deep chariot wheel marks and some engraved characters on the ground. What language? There is no clear description. The second site was the remains of the Bimbisara jail which offers a beautiful view of Gridhakuta Hill. Ajatshatru, son of King Bimbisara, under the bad influence of Devadatta, imprisoned his father in this jail so that he could take over the kingship. King Bimbisara who died in jail, was said to be able to see Lord Buddha and hear his preaching from the jail.

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We set off for Nalanda around 3:30pm. Established by emperor Kumaragupta I of the Gupta Empire around 427 CE, Nalanda was a great monastery in ancient and medieval Magadha and widely considered one of the greatest centres of learning in the ancient world for a thousand years till around 1400 CE. Nagarjuna, Dharmakirti, Asanga, Vasubandu, Silabhadra, Chandrakirti, Shantideva, Xuanzang and Yiying from China, to name just a few most renowned Buddhist monks and scholars, were students or were associated with the faculty.

At its peak, Nalanda attracted scholars and some ten thousand students from near and far, with some travelling from China, Tibet, Korea and Central Asia. It was indisputably the scholarly centre of the Mahayana Buddhism world. It was destroyed by an army of the Mamluk dynasty in c 1202 CE and was finally abandoned around 1400 and forgotten till the 19th century. Systematic excavations conducted since 1915 have unearthed 11 monasteries and six brick temples arranged on grounds of 12 hectares in area. All monasteries are very similar in layout and general appearance. We had a short tour of Monastery 1, which is considered the oldest and the most important of the monastery group, passed by the Shariputra Stupa (Temple no 3) before sitting down to meditate and listen to Shantum’s talk. The sun was setting and we had to leave without having a chance to walk past Temple 12, 13 and 14. What a pity!

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February 16 -17 Vaishali (The Vaishali Residency)

We had a relatively leisure day spending a wonderful afternoon time at the remains of ancient Kolhua Vaishali. This spot was significant: a monkey chief had offered a bowl of honey to Lord Buddha (the brick stupa was erected to commemorate this event), allowed nuns to the sangha for the first time, and announced his approaching nirvana. The imposing and iconic 11-metre high Asoka Pillar topped by a seated lion capital facing west is the centerpiece of Kolhua Vaishali’s historical allure. Excavations have exposed three phases of construction of Kutagarshala which represents where Buddha used to stay during the rainy seasons spent at Vaishali. Beginning as a small chaitya during the Sunga-Kushan period, it was enlarged into a lofty temple during the Gupta period and was finally converted into a monastery. There is an impressive large tank measuring 65×35 metres with two bathing ghats. As this was the spot where nuns were allowed into the sangha for the first time, Shantum invited Sr Tuc Nghiem to share her feelings and thoughts. She was emotional and evocatively about the fortune and blessing to be a nun of Plum Village. The four sisters had a picture together. Memorable and moving!

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Before leaving Vaishali, we walked mindfully from the hotel to the Buddha’s Relic Stupa at sunrise. According to Buddhist traditions, after attaining mahaparinirvana, his body was cremated by the Mallas of Kushinagar, the mortal remains were distributed among eight claimants including Licchavis of Vaishali, Ajatshatru, King of Magadha, Sakyas of Kapilavastu, Bulis of Alakappa, Koliyas of Ramagram, a Brahmin of Vethweep and Mallas of Pave and Kushinagar. The original mud stupa here measuring 8.07 metres in diameter, was one of the eight original relic stupas built over the corporal remains of Buddha. It was subsequently raised and expanded to its present size with a 12-metre diameter. Excavations carried out in 1958 miraculously discovered the relic casket of stone partly filled with ashy earth besides a small conch two glass beads, a fragmentary piece of gold and a copper punch marked coin. We sat and meditated for a while. I circumambulated three times before leaving. We returned to the hotel for breakfast before setting off.

February 17 am Kesariya

After a short drive from Vaishali, we arrived in Kesariya and stopped at the Buddhist Stupa, the largest stupa in India. It is believed this stupa was built in two phases (Sunga-Kushana and Gupta periods) at the spot where Buddha had offered alms bowl to the monks who followed when he departed from Vaishali after announcing his approaching nirvana. When we sat comfortably below a banyan tree, Shantum told the stories of the Kalamas living in this area at Buddha’s time and I remember the Kalama Sutta which is described as Buddha’s “charter of free inquiry”, advocating for prudential and critical thinking and reasoning and avoiding fanaticism, bigotry, dogmatism and intolerance. When circumambulating the stupa, we saw plenty of kusa grass. It is popular for pilgrims to use the grass to tie a knot and take home. We had a quick lunch at the restaurant nearby and drove onto Kushinagar.

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February 17 – 19 Kushinagar (Hotel Lotus Nikko)

We spent the whole morning at the Parinirvana Temple with a Stupa on the same platform and two sala trees at the front. I visited the temple in 2017. Built by the Indian Government in 1956 as part of the commemoration of the 2,500th year of the Mahaparinirvana, it has a 6.1-metre long reclining Buddha image. This time, I sat sit inside the temple to contemplate for some ten minutes. When a large group of pilgrims arrived, I got up so that other could take my place. I circumambulated watching many devoted Cambodian pilgrims from the US spreading red robes over the Buddha image. We sat and meditated afterward in the garden. When we broke into five sharing groups, I decided to sit on my own on a bench as I could not sit on the ground for an hour. I meditated and chanted the Buddha name.

Kushinagar was the capital of the Mallas. In the late afternoon, we proceeded to see the excavated remains unearthed by Carlleyle in 1876 and later by Archaeological Survey of India between 1904 and 1912. They include the giant Ramabhar Stupa (the cremation place of Buddha), the Nirvana Temple on a raised platform surrounded by a group of monasteries on the western side, a group of small sized stupas with carved bricks and ornamental pilasters on the southern side, a large two tiered brick platform and smaller sized stupas on the eastern side and votive stupas and monasteries on the northern side. From here Shantum led us to the nearby Hiranyati River or better known as the Buddha Ghat where Buddha spent his last moments. Instead of taking the bus back to the hotel, I decided to walk. It was dark and I walked in the wrong direction for about five minutes. I turned back not scared. I felt safe having a most enjoyable walk for about 15 minutes before reaching the hotel for dinner.

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February 19- 20 Sravasti (Hotel Lotus Nikko)

We had about 250km to drive to reach Sravasti. We sat off after breakfast and had a picnic lunch at the Piparahwa Stupa, one of the eight original stupas with a portion of Buddha’s ashes given to the Sakya clan. This is an ancient site in Kapilavastu where Buddha spent his first 29 years. This site was excavated by William Claxton Peppe, a British engineer who discovered in 1896-97 a large stone coffer containing five smaller vases containing bone fragments, gold ornaments and intricately fashioned jewelry, after digging through 18 feet of solid brickwork. These reliquaries together held the largest group of precious offerings ever recorded in a single deposit: around 1,800 gemstones and semi-precious stones, rock crystals, pearls, coral, sheet gold and silver etc.

The site is serene and beautiful with water lilies booming in a large pond. We sat down in a mango grove facing the stupa, had picnic lunch and listened to Shantum’s account of the Buddha’s life. Meditation at this special place is a blessing. We had a long drive to Sravasti with two nice surprises. First we saw a large group of beautiful sarus cranes before sunset. Second, we had a nice stop in a Thai temple which offered pilgrims nice ginger tea and noodles! I was greedy and had both!

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February 19 – 21 Sravasti (Lotus Nikko)

We were thrilled when Br Phap Dung told us to sign up for a Five Mindfulness Trainings transmission ceremony to be held in the Jetavana Grove the next day. I took refuge in the Three Gems in July 2023 and joined a winter retreat in Hong Kong in end 2023 and another two-week winter retreat in Plum Village last November. Since I have deepened my faith and understanding of Buddha’s profound teachings, I felt ready for undertaking formally the Five Mindfulness Trainings.

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Sravasti, close to today’s Nepalese border, was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Kosala and the place where Buddha lived most after his enlightenment. It was home of King Prasenajit, the royal patron of the Buddha and home of Anathapindada, the richest early donor for the Buddha. After their first meeting in the Venuvana in Rajgir, he bought the land of the Jetavana Grove with gold and offered it to the Buddha. It is believed to be where the Buddha taught many of his sutras: 871 sutras in the four Nikayas of Buddhist Canons are based in Sravasti. Buddha also converted many famous disciples and performed the “Sravasti miracles”. It was a prosperous area from the time of the Buddha (c 5th century BCE) to at least 12th century CE. The site, one of the most famous monasteries in Buddhist history, was rediscovered by a team of British and Indian archaeologists in late 19th-century with excavations through the 1990s.

After breakfast on February 20, we walked mindfully to Jetavana Grove (about 1.5 km) which is now a historical park with remains of many ancient buildings including Gandhakuti (Buddha’s hut), Kosambakuti, stupas and the Anandabodhi Tree (the second-holiest tree of Buddhism). As soon as I entered the complex, I felt something unique and special about this atmospheric place: morning rays shining through mature trees and bamboo groves fell on the blackish and reddish brick remains. We walked past the Anandabodhi Trees with pilgrims from Sri Lankan sitting under it. Shantum found a wonderful place under bodhi trees not far from Temples 17 and 18. As usual, we sat listening to his wonderful account of the Buddha’s life and special events taking place here. When I closed my eyes meditating, I had a feeling of deja vu: I had been here before! I was moved and moist came over my eyes: I have arrived; I am home.

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The ceremony was held in this most befitting and beautiful setting. The Five Mindfulness Trainings of the Plum Village tradition represent the Buddhist vision for a global spirituality and ethic. They are concrete expression of the Buddha’s teachings on the Four Noble Truths and the Noble Eightfold Path. They encompass “Reverence For Life, True Happiness, True Love, Loving Speech and Deep Listening and Nourishment and Healing“. The ceremony was simple and dignified. One participant was invited to recite one practice; a monastic asked those who had signed up whether they would follow the practice and we replied “yes, I do”. At the end, each of us was called up to collect a certificate with our dharma name. Mine is Sacred Way of the Source. I was elated feeling tranquil and peaceful: I have found the Path.

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In the afternoon, we visited the Angulimala Stupa and the Vishakha Palace. Angulimala was a dreaded dacoit who wore a necklace of fingers that were chopped from his victims. Appearing at his door when Angulimala was about to kill his mother, the Buddha stopped him and later turned him into a disciple. His transformation is seen as the example par excellence of the redemptive power of the Buddha’s teaching and his skill as a teacher. Angulimala is seen by Buddhists as the ‘patron saint’ of childbirth and is associated with fertility in South and Southeast Asia. Vishakha, the chief female patron of the Buddha, founded the temple of Migaranatupasada which together with the monastery in Jetavana Monastery are considered the two most important temples in the time of Gautama Buddha.

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February 21-22 Lucknow (Holiday Inn)

Today was the last day of the pilgrimage. After breakfast, I walked on my own and met up with the group at Jetavana Grove at 9:30am. We stayed comfortably in the same cool tranquil spot under the bodhi trees meditating before sharing our feelings and thoughts. The three – hour sharing was moving. Shantum had suggested earlier that we could reflect on the journey by composing a poem. Some shared their beautiful poems while other talked emotionally about their thoughts and feelings. I was very moved. I told my friends that I first visited India in 1978 and this pilgrimage was totally different from the one in 2017. As a Buddhist, I found this pilgrimage a spiritual journey and not a tourist trail as before. While sitting at this particular spot the day before, I felt instinctively that I had been here before and was ready for taking the transmission of the Five Mindfulness Trainings (Five Precepts). After this pilgrimage, I am determined to practice more diligently and would return again. The brothers and sisters gave us the best souvenir: they sang beautifully for us with Sr. Trai Neighm playing the violin. After lunch, we sat off at 3pm heading for Lucknow which is about 160km away and we arrive around 8 pm.

February 22 – Delhi – Hong Kong

Today, about half of the group including myself would end our journey in Delhi and return home. The remaining half including my roommate Mirella would be heading to Agra and depart on February 23. A small group would go onto visit Ajanta and Ellora caves on February 24 – 26. We had an emotional farewell: we embraced each other, took plenty of pictures and sang heartily for the last time. It was noon when I landed in Delhi. As my flight to Hong Kong would not be leaving till 11 pm, I had at least five hours for a whirlwind visit of the capital. I originally planned to store my luggage at the airport and take the metro for the first time. Unfortunately the luggage storage facility which looks limited was full(!). I therefore took a taxi for 2,600 rupees for five hours and invited a monastic from New Zealand to join. As it was Sunday, the traffic was not too bad. The driver drove through leafy and posh districts including the Presidential Palace to the Indian Gate before taking us to a restaurant nearby. We had a nice vegetarian lunch before heading to the famous Lotus Temple, Baha’i House of Worship. It was close to 5 pm and we had to return to the airport. The driver took me to a local commercial area near the airport where I bought a few cheap Indian cotton tops. I checked in after 7pm. As usual the Delhi airport is hectic: I took over an hour to check in and got through security and immigration. I waited for another half an hour to get into a paid-lounge! Delhi airport 2025, though much better than the one in 1975, still has a lot to catch up. Anyway, I had an enjoyable and wonderful afternoon touring around the capital, departed on time and was back in HK before 7 am on February 23.

Remarks

Today was April 3: I was in Cape Town about to embark on another journey sailing along the West African Coast to Lisbon which was the path of many explorers since the 15th century. I told myself I must complete my reflections and the notes on the pilgrimage which has been the most memorable spiritual journey in this present life. I confess there are simply too many memorable aspects including people, places and moments and it is impossible to recount all aspects. Anyway, all phenomena are empty! Nonetheless as a mortal / uncultivated person, I still wish to put down a few worth noting aspects of this unique journey.

First, I wish to express my deepest gratitude to the compassionate monastics and fellow pilgrims, and the most knowledgeable Shantum.

Second, I find the sacred and holy sites more endearing this time as I have learnt more about the Buddha’s life and teachings through my Buddhist studies from 2020 to 2023, Thay’s book “Old Path White Clouds” which Shantum reminded us to read before the trip, and his highlights at each site.

Third, India has made some changes since my first visit in 1978 and first pilgrimage in 2017 especially its airport facilities. Nonetheless, the noise, vibrant colours, diversity of people and cultures, or in short the DNA of India and Varanasi, remain unchanged.

Finally, I have put the most evocative and illuminating moment of the journey in a short poem for memory and sharing. I am sure I shall undertake another pilgrimage if conditions permit.

Why India?

Pilgrimage is the primary purpose of this trip: I have joined “The Footsteps of the Buddha” organised by the Plum Village from 9 to 22 February. Though I was in Ladakh from August 5 to 22, 2013 visiting Leh and Alchi, and taking a 10-day trekking tour from Chilling to Stok, I decide to take a private tailor-made 11-day snow leopard tour before the pilgrimage.

Ladakh 29/1-8/2

I took a direct Cathay Pacific flight and arrived in Delhi about 10 pm on 28 January. By the time I checked in the over-priced Holiday Inn Express inside Terminal 3, it was about 11:30pm. After a few hours’ sleep, I checked in again shortly after 5:30am on 29 January (First Day of the Chinese New Year of the Snake) in Terminal 3 for Leh, Ladakh for an Indian Air flight at 8:20am. Then I went through the security which was laborious and time-consuming without realising I had been put me on the 6:50am flight. I only discovered the boarding time when taking a casual look at my boarding pass. Gate 31 B was far away and I thought I would not make it. I walked at full speed and luckily reached the gate around 6:20am. I was the last passenger to board! The check-in staff should have advised me that they had put me on an earlier flight!

I arrived an hour and a half early in Leh. It was cold (-2 C) and grey. As my sim card did not work, I asked a ground staff at the airport called Ali, my driver who took me to the Dragon Hotel. There were few visitors in Leh in winter. The hotel kindly let me check in early. During my first visit to Leh in 2013, I had been sick for the first two days (possibly as a result of altitude sickness). Hence I decided to spend a lazy day resting in a spacious and comfortable room and drank plenty of water. It worked: I felt good and did not suffer altitude sickness.

Javeed of DreamLadakh came to see me in the afternoon to discuss my travel plan. Instead of camping, I asked for home-stay with toilet facilities. After showing him my website and places I had visited including the Shanti Stupa, Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, Leh Palace and Hemis Monastery, Alchi, and a 11-day Markha Valley trek in 2013, Javeed suggested a visit the Thiksey Monastery the following day to watch the puja ceremony before leaving on 31 January.

30 January Thiksey Monastery and Hemis Monastery

Ali picked me up at 7 am and I arrived at the 12-storey Thiksey Monastery shortly after 7:30 am. The largest monastery of the Gelug School in central Ladakh, the monastery established by Palden Zangpo in the mid 15th century is noted for its resemblance to the Potala Palace in Lhasa. It houses many items of Buddhist art such as stupas, statues, thangkas, wall paintings and swords. Inside the Maitreya Temple installed in 1970 to commemorate the visit of Dalai Lama to the monastery, it contains a 15-metre high statue of Maitreya, the largest of such statue in Ladakh.

A Puja is a prayer seeking Buddhas for protection and guidance. Just before 8 am, a monk started to blow a long horn outside the temple below the main courtyard. Half a dozen monks arrived followed by four novices. While the monks chanted the novices served butter tea and tsampa. I sat in a corner listening to the chanting. A novice kindly served me butter tea. The ceremony lasted for an hour. After the ceremony, I walked to the main courtyard and found only the Maitreya Temple open. Anyway I walked around, saw the old library and had fabulous panoramic views.

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My second stop was Hemis Monastery of the Drukpa Kagyu lineage. Though I visited it in 2013, I was happy to return. We stopped for a cup of hot marsala chai (chai) before crossing the Indus River. The country side covered in snow was most beautiful and serene. It was after 12:30pm when I reached the monastery. Memories returned when I stood in the majestic central court. Last time, I visited the museum which has a rich collection. But it is closed in winter. I was disappointed to find all halls closed. Luckily I met a monk who invited me to lunch in the kitchen. Though I was not hungry, I accepted the invitation with gratitude as I could take a glimpse of monastic life. I had rice and potatoes. After lunch, another monk told a novice to open some halls for me and two local women. As a result, I was able to go into the Tara Temple and the main Buddha Hall. A blessing indeed. I was back in the hotel for a late lunch after 3 pm.

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January 31 – February 1 Snow Leopard in Rumbak Valley

Javeed came to the hotel introducing me to a team of four who would accompany me for the next seven days. Sonam was my guide assisted by an assistant and a chef and Ali was the driver. I set off after 10 am from Leh and Sonam said we would go to Rumbak which was not mentioned in the original itinerary. I was taken by surprise but I trusted they knew best. Perhaps they had heard recent sighting in Rumba.

We crossed the Indus River and drove about an hour and a half to reach our destination. On the way, we saw two mountain goats and met a young hiker who told us he had spent four nights in Rumbak and had seen snow leopards on four occasions. Landscape and rugged terrain of Ladakh are stunning and breathtaking. After a scenic drive through a narrow gorge, we reached Rumbak valley (just over 40 km from Leh) lying within Hemis National Park. The region is known for a rich diversity of wildlife ranging from snow leopards to Tibetan wolves, blue sheep, Asiatic ibex, Ladakh urial and birds. I was captivated by the soaring snow-capped mountains, farmland covered in snow, glacier valley, leafless trees, frozen rivers and iconic local architectures.

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Once we entered the valley, we saw a group of 20 -30 tourists and guides on a small plateau with telescopes. Wow, a snow leopard was spotted in the morning near a mountain top in a distance. It was resting and everyone watched eagerly for it to wake up. Sonam set up a telescope while I also used my own binoculars for spotting. It was sunny but freezing and windy. I felt cold even after having a few cups of tea. I discovered a stylish lodge nearby which is called the Rumbak Wildlife Lodge. I was grateful it allowed me to use its toilet so that I had a chance to go inside.

After waiting for an hour or so, we were all ready for lunch. Ali drove us to the village (3960m above sea level) where we stayed in a typical mud house. Sonam said the plan was to stay here for seven nights. I was surprised as I was supposed to visit and stay in the other side of the Indus River. Anyway I trusted Javeed and Sonam knew the best places for spotting snow leopard. I was shown my room on the top of the building with full views of the narrow valley and snow-capped mountains.

We set off after 3:30pm. While approaching the plateau, we could sense the excitement and motion as all telescopes were pointed at the same direction. Unfortunately I walked slowly and by the time I reached the telescope, everyone was yelling and watching the snow leopard walking towards the ridge. I was struggling. Where was it? I could not find it through my binoculars. Eventually I watched it walking steadily and swiftly towards the ridge through Sonam’s telescope. He took a video for me. Within a second, it disappeared! I was excited to spot a snow leopard on the first day. It was however surreal, too lucky to spot it though the moment was too short and too fast! I was not prepared, too slow and unskillful in spotting.

Soon, after the snow leopard, experienced spotters found a lynx on a slope at the far end of a snow-capped mountain. Incredible! We spent the next half an hour watching the lynx sitting and walking around before disappearing in a distance. We also spotted two small hares. These spotters are incredible! It soon got dark and cold. We returned to the homestay and had dinner. I settled in my bed shortly after 8pm. My room was freezing despite the fire. I had a slight headache and I checked my oxygen level and heart beat throughout the night. On top of my own down sleeping bag, I covered myself with a quilt and blanket. The worst experience was to get out of the sleeping bag, get dressed and walk to the toilet outdoor. I had drunk too much water and got up a couple of times. As a result, I had hardly slept.

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Owing to a sleepless night, I did not feel energetic to get up for breakfast at 8 am. The rising sun began to warm up my room. The water frozen in the bucket beside my bed began to thaw. I did nothing but curled up in my warm and comfortable sleeping bag. Ali and Sonam had gone out spotting and did not return till 10 am. We decided to go out after lunch so that I could have more rest.

After lunch, we drove to the other side of the valley and reached Yurutse which has only one house. We had a great time. The scenery was beautiful. We saw a large group of blue sheep and yaks, and a few hares. We were surprised to find half a dozen of ibex on a slope at the farthest end of a mountain range. In order to avoid getting up to go to the toilet, I stopped drinking after 6 pm. Knowing my body conditions, I decided to leave the following day as I needed better accommodation with proper toilet facilities. Sonam called Javeed who noted my condition and agreed I should return to Leh first.

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February 2 – 6 Leh – Likir – Hemis Shukpachan – Tingmosgang – Leh

February 2– I was in better condition after a decent sleep. After breakfast, we set off and visited a nearby village Rumchung before reaching Leh in early afternoon. This photogenic village by a stream has several well-built and maintained houses. The stream was frozen and a walking path covered with yellow and golden leaves was lined with tall trees. We saw half a dozen cows lying in the sun. The valley was tranquil and beautiful. The four guarding angels walked on the frozen stream and posed for photos. We had a great time. When I was back in Leh, I had a late lunch and spent the rest of the day resting in my cosy room.

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February 3– We set off after 11 am. The plan was to follow the original itinerary to explore the right side of the Indus River. We followed the Ladakh Highway and stopped at Sangam point which offers an excellent views of the confluence of Indus River and its tributary Zankar River. Then we had a long chai stop at Nimu. Soon we were off the highway and took the side road to Likir Monastery. Located at an elevation of 3700m elevation and 52 km west of Leh and established in 1065 by Lama Duwang of the Gelugpa sect, it has two assembly halls. The main hall contains the statues of Bodhisattva, Amitabha, Sakyamuni, Maitreya and Tsong Khapa (founder of the Gelugpa sect of Buddhism). There are impressive paintings of Confessional Buddhas and Sakyamuni on the walls. Sitting on the roof is a 23m-high gilded gold statue of Maitreya completed in 1999.

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We continued driving through Sham Valley passing by Saspochey and Yangthang before reaching the Disket Guest House in Hemis Shukpachan, a largest village with lots of farmland surrounded by soaring mountains on all sides. The guesthouse run by a lovely couple of 76 and 64 is remarkably clean with nice carpets covering the entire floor. I was impressed by my room which had an electric heater and attached bathroom with toilet.

I spent the afternoon drinking butter tea and reading sutra in the sitting/dining room cum kitchen. Seven Americans arrived after 4 pm. We all sat peacefully in this cosy room reading and having dinner prepared by our own cook. I slept well as the heater kept the room warm. I had a flask of hot water to wash my face and feet as well as a hot water bottle to keep me warm. Above all, I could get up to go to the toilet without problem. Perfect!

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February 4– We explored the area around Hemis Shukpachan for the next two days. The Americans and I both spent the morning strolling leisurely on a small plateau with commanding views of the Zankar and Ladakh mountain ranges, the Pink Mountain and the Sham Valley trek trail. Just before lunch, we also discovered a small group of blue sheep on the top part of a steep mountain slope. I had a delicious lunch with soup and chicken fried rice prepared by my chef. I watched the blue sheep for a while after lunch. Then we returned to the guest house and I continued to drink chai while reading scriptures. I had a wonderful relaxing afternoon. The experienced guides predicted snow was coming. The guide of the American group invited my group to join them for dinner the next day. We accepted with pleasure and gratitude.

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February 5– A white world was awaiting me. Snow had transformed the landscape and scenery: the village was totally white and unworldly serene. I asked Ali and Sonam to return to the same plateau. The Pink Mountain had disappeared. Snow had miraculously softened the rugged rocky slopes of the Ladakh mountain range. Then we discovered a large group of ibex totaling 20-30 and some blue sheep grazing on lower slopes. We watched enthusiastically for over an hour. Then I asked Ali to drive around and we turned back at the end of the tarmac road while Sonam tried to walk to the bottom of the slope to get a closer look of the ibex. It was getting cold and windy and we returned to the guesthouse early.

I had momo (dumpling) for lunch. After having a couple of momo, I did not feel well. It might be too heavy for my stomach. I returned for a rest in my room. Singing from the dining hall woke me up. When I walked in, I discovered my American friends Emma, Sam, and Emma’s sister in full colourful Ladakhi costume sitting in the middle of the room. What was going on? Their guide performed some form of ritual and their chef brought in a beautiful cake for Sam to cut. Oh, it was an engagement ceremony of Emma and Sam conducted in Ladakhi tradition. They served all guests whisky before dinner. Alas, I suddenly had a dummy problem and I lost appetite. I could hardly eat and a wave of nausea came over. The party went on with the locals dancing and singing to congratulate the couple. I felt miserable and left the party to return to my room. Fortunately, I managed to sleep and recovered 80% the next day. But my stomach felt funny for the next few days. I decided to return to Leh as I would like a hot shower and proper rest especially with an upset stomach.

February 6– I told Sonam my decision to return to Leh and my willingness to pay for the hotel myself (5000 rupees). The morning was beautiful with a clear blue sky. I felt energetic and walked up to look at the golden Buddha statue overlooking the valley. Majestic indeed!

After saying goodbye to my hosts, we drove to Ang and finally reached Tingmosgang (92 km west of Leh) which was built by Ladakhi king Drag-pa-Bum as his capital in the 15th century. This lineage still lives on in the Stok Palace today. We first visited the monastery in the village. Several ruins of the palace / fortress on a ridge are picturesque. Inside the monastery, we we saw a precious self-originated image of Avalokitesvara from Kamrup that was brought and installed inside the castle in the 17th century. The temple with a 3-metre high statue of Maitreya was closed.

But the more impressive one is Tserkamo Monastery founded some 800 years ago located at the end of a small valley nearby. There was no tourist. We were thrilled to find a dozen of Ladakh Urial across the river on the other side of the valley. There were also some blue sheep. We were extremely lucky to see such a large group of urial. We set up the telescope, took plenty of photos and watched them for over half an hour with a cup of chai in our hand. We however missed an excellent opportunity to observe them drinking in the river. As soon as we started the engine of the vehicle, they flee away. Ali took the highway from Nurla back to Leh. We stopped by the roadside for lunch. I had a instant Maggie noodle that is nothing compared with the instant noodles I have in Hong Kong!

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I was back in Dragon Hotel before 4 pm. After having a fried rice for late lunch/ early dinner, and a hot shower, I felt contented and had a good sleep.

February 7 – 8 Leh

February 7– The only place I planned to visit before leaving was the Khardungla Pass (5359m) nestling in the Karakoram Range. It is about 40km from Leh. Luckily the steep road is now well-paved and efficiently cleared off snow for vehicles to drive through. We took about two hours to reach the pass as we had a lovely photo stop on the way. The temperature plunged to -16 C: after taking a few photos, I returned to the car and Ali happily started to descent. We met Javeed for lunch before I was dropped off in my hotel. I spent an hour strolling in the commercial centre of Leh which has been enlarged and lined with more shops. I passed by a new hotel called Chospa which is modern and beautifully designed. I wished I had discovered it earlier so that I could have stayed there instead of Dragon Hotel when I had to pay for a night myself.

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February 8 – Ali drove me to the airport at 10 am for my flight at noon. The Air Indian flight was delayed for over half an hour. Anyway I landed safely in Delhi around 2:30pm.

Remarks

After reading about the elusive snow leopard, I hoped to see one once in my life. Hence, I was extremely lucky to see one on the first day of my visit to Rumbak. Everything turned out well except the homestay in Rumbak with a toilet outside. The Ladakh trip far exceeded my expectations. First, the landscape and winter scenery are stunningly beautiful. Second, wildlife in winter was still amazing. I saw Ladakh urial, blue sheep, yak, ibex, lynx and hare etc. Third, I visited a number of monasteries for the first time. Finally, I had never been tampered and served by a driver, a guide, an assistant guide and a chef. The four young men have been so nice to me. I love Ladakh and would like to return once more to travel from Manli to Kashmir.