Indonesia Bali 2023

Why Bali – Vanuatu on Heritage Adventure 2023

I had booked two expeditions with the Heritage Expedition to explore the coast of Sea of Okhotsk and Kamchatka in May-June 2020. COVID 19 threw the world upside down. A year later the Ukraine war made it impossible to visit Russia. I therefore switched to a one-month long expedition from Bali, Indonesia to the Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands and Vanuatu comprising two legs I.e. Bali to Madang and Madang to Port-Vila .

As I was very busy with my studies and travel to Sydney and Sri Lanka, I did not have time to prepare. As a result, I made two mistakes. First, I redeemed my miles for a ticket to Bali. Without paying proper attention, I ended up spending some twelve instead of five hours to get to Bali via Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Second, I set off without an underwater camera missing the opportunity to capture the captivating marine life in the most pristine waters.

Bali – Madang Expedition (7 – 24 October 2023)

October 7 Saturday: I had to leave home before 6:30am to catch a flight at 9 am and eventually landed in Bali airport around 6 pm. I was late for the welcome dinner at  the Hyatt Regency Hotel.  The first people I met were Aaron (the expedition leader of the first leg) and Nathan (Aaron’s brother whom I first met during the Wrangle Island expedition and who would lead the second leg); Suzanne (the culture enthusiast), Sue and David from Adelaide. I was exhausted and had good sleep.

October 8 Sunday: There were over 60 passengers on the expedition. Before boarding the Heritage Adventure, my floating home for the next thirty days, I was arranged to join a short cultural tour to Lantangidung Village, a Balinese living compound surrounded by rice fields in Ubud.  These Balinese villages nestled in green fields are charming, picturesque, and clean. We visited a few craftsmen who made offerings to deities with flower, flour and bamboo; were engaged in wood sculpture,silver and batik making and oil painting. We also visited Batuan Temple, one of the most beautiful within Tri Kahyangan Village. We had a nice buffet lunch in the Royal Pita Maha Maha Hotel before proceeding to the port for embarkation ready to set sail before sunset. As usual, we had to attend mandatory briefings. I shared a cabin on Level 3 (303) with Vivian and Nicki, both are from Brisbane. They are super nice.

October 9 Monday: Sumbawa Island & Satonda Island

The ship sailed through the Bali Sea and we arrived at Sumbawa Island in the province of West Nusa Tenggara with an area of over 15,000 km2  and a population of over 1.5 million. Our guides were thrilled to have their first group of tourists since COVID. We had a tour of the Pamulang Village which is tidy, simple and clean. All timber structures elevated above ground to permit water movements during monsoon season, are adorned with lovely plants.  We were invited to visit one of the huts. Apart from a few mattresses on the floor and bowls and pans in the kitchen, there is not much else. Anyway, the people look happy.

Then we watched a water buffalo race where the rider perching on an A-frame structure behind two joined buffalos, had to race down a water-flooded rice paddy field while trying to steer them over a stick placed in the mud. Traditionally this event was a celebration at the end of the harvast, local entertainment and a fun way of tilling the muddy floor of the paddy. Thijs and  Gavin from the boat joined the race. Many participants were unable to control the buffaloes, lost balance and fell off. The animal lovers were not pleased and considered the animals were cruelly treated.

Our final stop was the iconic and impressive wooden Old Palace of Dalam Loka one of the largest wooden structures in the world. Dating from 1885 (during the reign of the 16th sultan of the Dewa Dalam Bawa Dynasty), it was made using wooden slotting joints and without any nails.

In the afternoon, we snorkeled and swam at the Satonda Island with a large crater lake in the center. I walked to the lake and had a dip before returning to the beach and snorkeled for an hour. I was delighted to watch a large lion fish for some 15 minutes: we looked each other in our eyes. Magical! I had my first snorkel of this expedition on 9 October. By the time I disembarked on November 8, I must have snorkeled over twenty times.

Marine Life

As of 2020, there are 2,175 identified separate coral species which can be classified as hard corals which form reefs by a calcium carbonate base with polyps with 6 stiff tentacles and or soft corals which are pliable and formed by a colony of polyps with 8 feather-like tentacles. I have seen plenty of hard (stony) corals- cabbage, lobed, table, boulder brain different colours, cactus, finger, star column, mushroom, elk-horn, stag-horn, cauliflower, whorls of chalice coral, pillar, tiered coral and cup coral. For soft corals, I can identify tan leather, Dendronephthya soft coral, sea fans, stinging Hydroid, mushroom leather, sea plumes, tree soft corals, spiral wire coral, sea whip etc. There are plenty of colourful sea worms (feather duster), sea slugs (Nudibranch), feather stars, sea urchin, sea cucumber, sea stars and tunicates.

October 10 Tuesday: Komodo Island & Pink Beach

We arrived at the Komodo Island with dry parched hills and a backdrop of a spectacular skyline of cones and ridges. It is the largest island in the Komodo National Park, an UNESCO World Heritage Site that I visited in June 2018  where I saw eleven Komodo Dragons (the largest lizard in the world). There are around 1,500 dragons on the island. I joined a birder group led by Frank, an ornithologist. In addition to seeing half a dozen dragons, I saw the Yellow Crested Cockatoos, Oranged-footed Scrubfowl, Tenggara Whistler, Flores White-eye, Flame-breasted Sunbird, Flying Lizard, and Green Tree Snails. In the afternoon, we snorkeled at the picturesque Pink Beach which I had spent a lovely afternoon during my last visit. The pink tinge is caused by Foraminifera, the shells of tiny marine creatures. I found the beach not as pink as before. But with snorkel gears, I could see the beach is full of soft and hard coral and tropical fish including Sergeant-majors, Butterflyfish and Clownfish.

October 11 WednesdayKodia & Koja Island

We reached Koja (a small village) to Kodia Island (the main island) along the northern coast of the Flores. We were  by a group of school girls and boys with a welcome dance. The villagers enthusiastically showed us around the village which houses had been all destroyed by tsunami except a rocky top which is now a pilgrimage site (74 steps). From this vantage point, I had excellent views of the island, surrounding coral reefs and the 800-metre long causeway constructed by hand and opened in 1978 so that kids could walk to school on Kodia Island. The fit ones walked across the causeway to visit a school. As I am slow, I returned to the boat before 11 am in order to take a reef snorkel. The beautiful clear water with colourful coral is most impressive. But I did not see as many big fish as the day before.  
In the afternoon, we had three lectures on birds, tourism in Wakatobi and tidal passage. I always enjoy continuous education opportunities.

Thursday, 12 October Wakatobi and Hoga Island

I had my first sight of the bajo (sea gypsies/once nomadic sea dwellers) at the Sampela Village on the Hoga Island, Wakatobi. The village has a Muslim population of over 2,000 whose wooden huts are built on stilts. Sanitation is poor: all human waste goes to the sea. We had an interesting zodiac cruise where we could observe the locals carrying on their daily life. We then walked around the village and I was glad to find a simple but clean clinic. I also met a group of teenage girls who looked cheerful and happy.  

We had wonderful time snorkelling on the Kaledupa Island Reef with seagrass and abundant marine life: large Chocolate Chip Sea Stars, hard and soft corals, giant clams, Anemones (clown fish), Christmas Tree Worms. I did see lots of colourful coral fish and impressive massive corals.
In the afternoon, we had a good lecture by Frank on birds and another by Courtney on marine life.

October 13 Friday:  Buru Island

I watched sunrise over the soaring peak of the Buru Island, the third largest island within the Maluku Islands. It was only the third time the island was visited by an expedition boat. Religious affiliation is evenly split between Christianity and Islam. It was occupied by the Japanese during WWII and former president Suharto built a prison holding thousands of political prisoners during his New Order administration in the 1960s-1970s.

As I did not feel and sleep well (possibly because of the swell), I vomited  twice before breakfast. Though I was not in top form, I participated in the land programme after a zodiac cruise along the limestone coast of Buru. We explored the mangroves, saw large freshwater springs erupting from the limestone cliffs and underwater, as well as dense canopies. The morning lights were magically.

 Then we landed in the Pasir Putih Village where we were greeted warmly with welcome dance. Local guides showed us the village. Houses are built on land in bricks and cement as well as traditional bush materials. There are also some houses built on stilts.  The village seems well-provided with wells and water taps. I noticed the change of architectural styles of the houses.

We snorkeled off the Bird Island before lunch. When the expedition team learned about my nausea and vomits, they whisked me off to isolation for 24 hours (Room 423). I later learned that several passengers had problems gastro problems. For precaution, they isolated anyone with symptoms though I was quite sure that my nausea was probably due to the sea conditions and lack of sleep. Anyway, I enjoyed the temporary solitude and had a good sleep.  

October 14 Saturday: Seram Island

Today, the boat made an inaugural visit to Seram Island with an early morning excursion to a low land forest in the Manusela National Park followed by village visit. As I was in isolation, I could only watch others getting off the boat!  

Around 10 am, I asked the onboard doctor to release me from isolation. After checking, she allowed me to come out of the room. Unfortunately, as all the expedition staff were in the park and out of reach of the radio, I had to wait till noon when the first zodiac took passengers back to the boat. I was glad that I still had some 40 minutes roaming freely in the tiny Rumah Olatto Village where I saw an  Ebenezer Church, the first church I saw during this journey. The village with some 100 families and 400 people, is super clean and tidy.  Apparently, the owner of the resort, a supporter of the church and the village is building a new house for a pastor.   

In the afternoon, we snorkeled at an Eco Resort where we found several endemic orchids and plants. Corals are not as extensive and spectacular as previous days: some seemed to have been destroyed by storm. Suzanne gave a fascinating lecture on the Sultans of Spice.  I watched the best sunset since we set sail.

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Fujian Pilgrimage 21-27 September 2023

I joined a 5-day pilgrimage trip to Fujian 福建 (September 21-25) organised by the Buddhist Compassion Organisation and stayed behind in the Fuzhou for two more days a few days.  It is a nice discovery tour : while the basic structures and layout of all Chinese temples have similar features, all the nine temples visited have over a thousand years of history with the oldest one dating back to the end of the sixth century.

Fujian

Fujian with a population of 37 million is a coastal hilly province of which 80% of its area is mountain. It has long been an outward-looking province involved in maritime trade. It is the homeland for most Taiwanese and overseas Chinese, especially in Southeast Asia.   The major cities include Xiamen 廈門 (a port town and former foreign concession), Quanzhou泉洲, an old port city with a Maritime Museum (Marco Polo considered it as“one of the two greatest havens in the world for commerce”, and Fuzhou 福洲 (the provincial capital with an old-town district and a small maritime museum).

Rich in natural and cultural heritage, Fujian has five world heritage sites (Mount Wuji, Fujian Tulou, Kulangsu in Xiamen, China Danxia in Taining and Quanzhou: the Emporium of the world in Song  (960-1279) -Yuan (1368-1644) China. It also has an amazing variety of religious structures belonging to Buddhism, Daoism, Christianity and Islam. The main temple of the sea Goddess Mazu 馬祖is in Putian蒲田. The first Catholic missionaries, Franciscan monks reached China via Quanzhou in 1313.

September 21: Quanzhou

The group of 36 departed by high-speed train at West Kowloon around 9am and changed in Shenzhen 深圳. Upon arrival in Quanzhou after 2 pm, we lost no time and visited Kaiyuan Temple 開元寺 built in 685 or 686 during the Tang dynasty (618-907). It was inscribed on the world heritage list along with other sites in Quanzhou. The central figures of veneration enshrined in the Mahavira Hall 大雄寶殿are the five Tathāgathas from Chinese esoteric Buddhism. Some columns have fragments with Lord Vishu in the South Indian style from a Vishnu temple built in 1283 by a merchant community from Tamil in Quanzhou. It is the largest Buddhist temple in the province.

There is a museum/memorial hall on Master Hong Yi (1880-1942) 弘一大師  who was a master painter, musician, dramatist, calligrapher, seal cutter, poet before becoming a Buddhist monk in 1916. He spent his last fourteen years in Quanzhou and his life, photos, works etc are displayed in the hall.

After the temple, we strolled in the old town admiring the blend of architecture of the old buildings with beautiful mosaics and western-styled balconies. There are also ancient boundary markers of the old town which was once the largest custom house was located for collection of tax on merchandised goods.

September 22 Quanzhou & Putian

We began the day at Chengtain Temple承天寺 (957-958). Originally known as the Nanzhen Temple南禪寺, it changed to its present name in 1007 and was rebuilt in 1691 during the Qing dynasty (1636-1912). Serious damages were done during the cultural revolution (1966-1976). A Buddhist monk from Singapore vowed to renovate the temple in 1983 and works were completed in 1990.  

While the layout and structures of the halls and buildings are like most of Chinese Buddhist temples, there are a few interesting features. At the southwest corner of the temple is a site of a mint (942-944) where important archaeological finds were discovered in 2002. There is a stone column of sutra inscription with sculptures (1102-1106) with 13 levels relocated here. During his 14 years in Quanzhou, Master Hong Yi stayed most frequently in the Chengtain Temple. Before leaving the temple, I visited the living quarter where the Master spent his last days and passed away on 13 October 1943. He was cremated in this temple.

Before lunch, we had a stop at a tourist attraction where many traditional buildings of Fujian were preserved and relocated here. The most notable grand buildings are the Zhuang’s Clan Temple, Open-air Stage (opera/performance) and Cai’s Clan Temple. As we only had an hour, I only had a quick tour.

After lunch, we visited the Mazu Temple 文峰宮in Putian opposite is a small temple called Fengshan Temple鳳山寺. I discovered a beautiful and serene white jade Buddha in this small and derelict temple.

The last stop was the Nan Shan Guang Hua Si廣化寺 located at the foot of Mount Phoenix. The monastery has a long and tumultuous history.  Built in 588 and named Jianxian Monastery 金仙庵, it is one of the most influential Chinese temples in China and one of the most scenic visitor attractions in Fujian spreading over an area of more than32,000m. In 771, Emperor Ruizong of Tang named it Lingyan Temple靈岩寺 and was renamed Guanghua Temple during the reign of Emperor Taizong of Song (976-997). Together with Gushan Spring Temple 鼓山涌泉寺, Kaiyuan Temple, and Xiamen’s Nanputo Temple南普陀寺, they were known as the four great Buddhist monasteries or Conglin 林of Fujian Province. During the Song and Ming dynasties, it was destroyed and rebuilt. Qing Kangxi Emperor carried out a comprehensive building programme in 1692 and merged it with the nearby Fahai Temple 法海寺. But by 1886, only the Avalokitesvara Pavillion with two resident monks remained in the monastery. A rebuilding programme began since 1890 and monks of the monastery spread Chinese Buddhism to Malaysia and Indonesia. temple. It continued to be restored and rebuilt by its abbots. During the cultural revolution, it was used as a factory and barrack. After the revolution,  Abbot Master Yuanzhou 圓拙法師 (1979-1986) funded the establishment of the new Fujian Buddhism Academy 福建彿學院on the site in 1983.  

I find this monastery built on the hill slope tranquil, spiritual and atmospheric. The principal features include a Memorial Arch, Pool of Rebirth, tall Mountain Gate, Hall of four Heavenly Kings, Mahavira Hall, Buddhist Hall, Jialan Palace, Tripiţaka Hall, Hall of Kritigarbha and a 30.6m-high stone pagoda (1165) from the Song dynasty.  

 September 23:  Fuzhou

In the morning, we visited the Wanfu Temple 萬福寺  of Chan’s  Linji sect 臨濟宗.   黃檗山First established in 789 by Zhenggan 正于, a pupil of Huineng 惠能 (638-713), the Sixth Patriarch of Chan School, it was destroyed and rebuilt several times.  The temple came to fame as its 33rd abbot Master Yinyuan 隱元travelled to Japan on invitation in 1654 with his disciple Muyan and a delegation. Together they founded the Japanese Ōbaku school of Zen 黃檗宗. The head temple of the Ōbaku school in Uji City is named after this temple. In the 80s the temple was badly destroyed by flood. In 1989, the temple was reconstructed/renovated with the assistance of Sino-Japanese Buddhist  communities.

Located at the foothill of the Huangbo Mountain黃檗山and surrounded by hills, this newly built temple with a long history looks grand with Japanese flavour.  I find the natural setting and the long walk to the mountain gate next to the pool of rebirth enchanting. (After the 88-temple pilgrimage in Shikoku in end November 2023, I visited the Obaku-san Manpuku-ji Wanfu Temple lined with great Chinese-style temple buildings with Chinese flavour).

In the afternoon, we visited the Dragon Springs Temple 龍泉寺. Originally built in 554 and known as the West Hill Temple西山寺, it was the temple where Master Baizhang Huaihai 百丈懷海禪師 (749 – 814 ) became a monk. Emperor Yizong 唐懿宗renamed it Dragon Springs Temple during his reign (860-873). This famed temple had been expanded and renovated in the Song dynasty. But by the mid-fifteenth century during the Ming dynasty, it was derelict and badly destroyed.  Renovated in the sixteenth century, it regained its former glory in the eighteenth century. It was again  badly damaged during the cultural revolution. Thanks to the zeal and efforts of a few leading monks, the temple has been renovated with principle features restored or rebuilt. In 1998, the Dragon Spring Buddhist Academy began to take in monastic students.  

September 24: Fuzhou

We set off early and had a long and beautiful drive to the Snow Peak  雪峰to visit the famous Chongshengsi 崇聖禪寺. In 870, Master Yicun義存 (822-908) established a temple which was called 枯木庵. At its peak, the temple endowed with royal patronage and generous donations, had over 1500 monks.  Two disciples of Master Yicun established two sects of the Chan school namely the Cloud Gate 雲門 and Dharma Eye法眼. As a result, Chonhshengsi is also regarded as the headquarters of these two sects. During the Song dynasty, it was renamed Chongshengsi in 978. Highly regarded as the first of the ten old temples during the Song dynasty and one of the five conglin in the Qing dynasty, it has long been a pilgrimage site.  However, towards end of the Qing dynasty, it had badly damaged as a result of wars. Since late 1970s, the temple with support from Buddhist communities locally and overseas, has been restored and expanded.

Located at the Snow Peak at an altitude of 870m, this expansive atmospheric temple now has an old and a new wing with sacred fragment of a Buddha tooth, relics of a couple of trees over 1000 years old, Master Yicun relics, pagodas of former abbots  etc. As it was the last day of the important 7-day Water and Land Ritual, chanting could be heard with devote Buddhists prostrating in the hall. It was atmospheric.  We also had lunch at the temple.

After lunch, we visited the Yongquan Temple 涌泉寺 located on Gushan Mountain. First built in 783 during the Tang dynasty and was called the Huayan Temple, it had gone through many changes and repairs. It was changed to Yongquan Chan Temple in the tenth ceentury because a spring flowed through its Four Heavenly Kings Hall.  It was renamed Yongquan Temple in 1407 during the the Yongle era. Most of the structures in the temple were repaired and built around 1522-1566 during the Ming dynasty.

Today, the temple built along the up and down of the mountain has over 25 rooms and halls maintaining the architectural style of the Jiajing period (1522-1566). The treasures of the temple includes a bronze bell cast in the 18th century with the 6372 words of the Diamond Sutra carved on the outside, and over ten sets of Avatamsaka Sutra printed in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) preserved in the temple.

September 25 & 26: Fuzhou

When the group departed after breakfast, I moved to stay in a hotel near the high-speed train station. Using taxi and the MTR, I had two days exploring Fuzhou visiting only three attractions. The first place I went was the Xichan Temple  西禪寺 with many famous monks since the Tang dynasty. Built in 867, the temple in its heydays had over 3000 monks. Interesting features include two laichee trees from the Song dynasty and five pagodas (one from the Tang dynasty and two from the Qing dynasty). Overseas Chinese have funded its restoration and renovation in the 20th century. Sadly, it was heavily damaged during the cultural revolution. It was only after 1982 when the temple was reopened and restored with overseas Chinese donation.

In the afternoon, I walked aimlessly in the Sanfang Qixiang (Three Lanes and Seven Alleys), a historic and cultural photogenic area with many preserved buildings and small museums of interest. Close by is an area with canals lined with eateries and tea houses which reminds me of Lijiang in Yunnan.

On the second day, I spent the morning in the Fujian Musuem and revisited the Sanfang Qixiang in the afternoon. I went into all the old houses that were open to visitors and a newly opened hotel that only serves vegetarian meals. Very interesting. I spoke to a lady who runs boutique in a restored house selling expensive costume of her own label. I also visited a few museums in the area. With a hip problem, I was too tired to walk up to a hill top nearby for a panoramic views. I had a nice dinner by the canal.    

On September 27, I took a direct train from Fuzhou to Hong Kong which took about four hours. I was back in Hong Kong after 2 pm.

Remarks

While I have been to Mount Wuji, Fujian Tulou and Kulangsu in Xiamen on my first two trips to Fujian, it is my first time to visit temples. With the Buddhist studies in the past three years and being a Buddhist, I appreciate the chance to visit these old temples with long history. The mountainous setting of most of these temples is enchanting: I realise what congli  means and the spiritual, religious and arduous life of the monastics. It is sad to see the rise and fall of these temples in the last 1500 years. I am moved to see the contributions of overseas Chinese, both monastics and laymen to the renovation and revival of these temples. It is inspiring to see the relics of renowned venerable such as Master Yicun, Baizhang Huaihai, Yinyuan and Hong Yi.  There are so much to see in Fujian and I shall certainly return one day.

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Bangkok 1-4 September 2023

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Sri Lanka (2) 16-31 August 2023

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Sri Lanka (1) 16-31 August 2023

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Sydney & Melbourn 29 July – 6 August, 2023

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Taiwan June 16-26, 2023

Why this trip?

Lawrence (my younger brother) and Sally (sister-in-law) moved to Pengh澎湖, Taiwan in 2021. On hearing that Lili, my niece, would be visiting her parents in June, I decided to join her as I would have enough time to complete my capstone project which was due in end July. My friends Leung, Flora and Kai decided to join.

Penghu

Located approximately 50km west from the main island of Taiwan, Penghu with an area of about 140 km2, is an archipelago of 90 islands and islets in the Taiwan Strait (collectively forms the Penghu County). These islands first appeared in the historical record during the Tang dynasty, was administered by China with brief European occupations by the Dutch (1622-1624) and French (1885) and was ceded to the Japanese in 1895. Since the end of WWII, Penghu has been defined and geographically acknowledged as part of Taiwan. The Magong Island 馬公嶼is the largest in the archipelago with the Magong City馬公市 with a historical centre is the largest city.

Penghu is the remnant of Miocene aged shield volcano. Its stratigraphy is dominated by two to four layers of basalt interbedded with sandstone and mudstone deposited in shallow marine conditions. The main island (comprising the Magong City and Huxi township 湖西), Baisha 白沙and Xiyu 西嶼are the three most populous islands that are connected via bridges. The Penghu Great Bridge connecting Baisha and Xiyu is the longest bridge in Taiwan.

Tourism has become one of the main sources of income of Penghu which is rich in tourism resources. There are numerous historical sites including the Central Street, Erdai Art Hall, Tianhou Temple, Four-eyed Well, Penghu Reclamation Hall, Jinquitou Fortress, Shuncheng Gate in Magong Island; the Eastern Fort and Western Fort, Erkan Historical Village and Yuwengdao Lighthouse, Three Fairies Pagodas in Xiyu Island; and the Qimei lighthouse in Qimei Island七美嶼.  There are many natural and coastal attractions including the double-heart of stacked stones (also known as Twin Hearts Stone Weird), Daguoye Columnar Basalt, Fengqui Cave, Whale Cave and Xiaomen Geological Museum in Shomon Island, and the South Penghu Marine National Park. 

June 16: Kaosiung & Penghu

I flew to Kaosiung 高雄to catch a short connecting flight to Penghu. Everything went smoothly and I was met by Lawrence around 2 pm in Penghu. Lawrence came with a car: he had bought a second-hand car to take me and my friends around. It is very considerate and kind of him. I told Lawrence about my hip problem, and he took me to his doctor in Magong. The ex-rays showed my hip was in bad state: the doctor said I should have hip-replacement at some stage.

Lawrence and Sally now live and work as a volunteer in a centre providing after-school service for students in Xiyu. This centre also run a summer camp. They live in an old house nearby.  Lawrence showed me around while Sally and Lili prepared dinner.

June 17: Xiyu

We spent the day touring Xiyu on motorbike: I rode with Lawrence while Sally and Lili rode on another one. We went to see the Daguoye Columnar Basalt, visited the Eastern and Western Forts, and stopped at some small fishing villages and the Yuwengdao Lighthouse. I visited my first double-heart of stacked stones, an interesting man-made feature made by locals for catching fish during high tide. With my hip problem, I found getting on and off a motorbike not easy. Furthermore, as I was bitten by some insect the night before, my skin got rash making even more uncomfortable to sit on a motorbike under a baking sun.

June 18: Father’s Day

Today, we travelled around in Lawrence’s car. I found it easier and more comfortable to move around. We had a leisure day touring Xiyu, Baisha and Magong and visited the Ocean Resources Museum, the Penghu Living Museum, the Jinguitou Fortress and the Duxingshi Village which was a former barrack now revitalised into a cultural centre.  I also consulted a doctor about the rash and was reminded to be careful and avoid insect bites. Kai arrived in the evening and stayed in the Magong City.

June 19: Qimei

We met up with Kai in the morning and took a ferry to Qimei, the southernmost island in the group which is fifth largest with an area of about 7km2. We hired a car and toured around. Unfortunately, we damaged it and had to pay a damage of about USD250. We stayed in a nicely designed and clean BnB and found a nice seafood restaurant near the pier.  With a car, we went round this small island with ease and saw the iconic Twin-heart Stone Weird 雙心石滬at different time of the day – midday, high-tide and low-tide, the Little Taiwan (an islet resembling the island of Taiwan), a lighthouse, a few villages, the Seven Beauties Tomb and a small old fort. I was a bit disappointed at the sunset.

June 20: Qimei & Xiyu

We spent the morning touring Qimei before taking a ferry that took us to see two islands of the South Penghu Marine National Park including a Blue Hole on the way back to Magong. Owing to poor lighting, we did not see the amazing blue hue as advertised.

Today, Leung and Flora arrived in Penghu. Four of us stayed in a nice BnB by a beach in Xiyu not far from Lawrence’s place for two nights. The house is new with five rooms. The seafood in Penghu is excellent but the cooking style does not bring out the best taste of fresh seafood.

June 21: Xiyu, Baisha & Shomon Island

We went with Lawrence in his car while Sally and Lili rode a motorbike. Lawrence took us to visit the Xiyu forts and some attractions in Baisha including the Fengqui Cave, Whale Cave, Xiaomen Geology Gallery in Shomon Island. Then we visited the Erkan Historical Village and the Three Fairies Pagoda. 

June 22: Dragon Boat Festival

Today was the Dragon Boat Festival and my birthday. The owner of the BnB and Lawrence treated us with delicious dumplings, chicken congee, fresh fruits etc. We checked out of the hotel and moved to stay in Magong for two nights.

Kai, Leung, Flora, and I toured on our own while Lawrence and family visited their friends. We took a taxi to the Jinguitou Fort in Magong. Unfortunately, it was closed on public holidays. We then went to the Duxingshi Village. It was so hot that I took refuge in a bookstore / coffee house and had a cold drink while others toured around. We also strolled along the Central Street, stopping at the Tianhou Temple and Four-eyed Well and looking at the old and restored buildings. 

At 6 pm, we met up with Lawrence’s family and had a sumptuous seafood dinner in a private kitchen to celebrate my birthday. The chef is wonderful: we had the best dinner in Penghu. We returned the following night.  We watched fireworks for half an hour. The park was full of people and atmospheric. A memorable birthday celebration!

June 23: Magong, Tongpan & Hujing

Today, we spent the morning in the Star Fish Farm where we had oyster BBQ for an hour in the middle of a bay. In the afternoon, we joined a boat trip to visit two islands close to Magong.  We first spent about an hour in the Tongpan Geology Park with columnar basalt on the Tongpan Islet 桶盤嶼with an area of only 30 ha. The geology park though not expansive is worth visiting. We also saw a derelict but grand mansion which is an indication of its heyday.

Then we toured around the Hujing Island 虎井嶼with an area of 2.1 km2 in minibus. As most of the people have left the island, it looks deserted. But there are a few attractions on this island including the We Xishan Observatory Post, the Guanyin Park, and the Hijing Memorial of the Tropic of Cancer with a group of sculpture. Given its proximity to Magong, tourists provide an opportunity for revitalising the island economy.

June 24-26: Fo Guang Shan佛光山

Lawrence’s family left Magong for Tainan early in the morning. I flew to Gaosiung in the afternoon and made my way to stay in the Fo Guang Shan for two nights. Founded in 1967 by Master Hsing Yun (1927-2023) 星雲大師, the order which roots traced to the Linji school of Chan Buddhism, promotes humanistic Buddhism and is known for its efforts in the modernisation of Chinese Buddhism. Fo Quang Shan Monastery is its headquarters and is the largest Buddhist monastery in Taiwan and offers extensive education programs including four Buddhist colleges, three regular colleges and various community colleges. The order has over 1,000 monastics and over one million followers worldwide.

Apart from the Monastery and educational institutes, Master Hsing Yun built the Buddha Museum which covers more than 50 ha. Completed in 2011, the museum attracts Buddhists and visitors, local and overseas.  The Jade Buddha Shrine is said to hold tooth relics of the historic Buddha. There is also an enormous 108-m high seated metal Shakyamuni Buddha. I spent It was so hot that I spent an afternoon inside the museum and found peace and tranquillity in the Shrine.

On June 26, I met up with Flora and Leung in the Museum and took a ride back to Gaosiung. We spent a leisure afternoon in Gaosiung before taking the evening flight back to Hong Kong.

Remarks

I like Penghu and shall return to visit Lawrence and Sally. I still have many islands to visit. But I shall not go again in the summer which is too hot. My short stay in Fo Guang Shan leads me further on my spiritual path. On July 2, I took refuge in the three gems and became a pupil of the Buddha.

Categories: My Asia trips, My China trips | Comments Off on Taiwan June 16-26, 2023

New Year in Sydney December 25, 2022- January 10, 2023

The spectacular New Year fireworks in Sydney have been on the bucket list of many travelers. Though I am not a fireworks fanatic, I decided to make a special trip to Sydney over Christmas when my brother Alan and my cousin Wini decided to celebrate their 70th birthday and watch fireworks together in Sydney. This special occasion was joined by Lawrence, my younger brother, Sally, my sister-in-law and Lili, my niece from Los Angeles, Wini’s family (Bob, Paul and David) from the USA and her brother Geoffery from Hong Kong.

December 25: As the examination and course work for the first semester of the Buddhist Counselling Course at the University of Hong Kong ended in late December, I was able to leave Hong Kong before Christmas. Unfortunately, I caught COVID on December 16 and could not fly till I was tested negative for two days. Luckily, I was able to change my ticket and left Hong Kong on December 24 arriving in Sydney just in time for Christmas dinner on December 25. We had a wonderful Christmas gathering in the house of Shirley, my niece. I was very happy to have a lovely dinner with Alan, Vicki (my sister-in-law), Shirley and her family (Lee, Thomas and Asher), my good friend Karen and her husband Tony.   

December 26 – 30: As a frequent visitor to Sydney, I have no urge to visit the tourist attractions. I spent most of the time with my family and went out to dine and catch up with my cousins who arrived on December 28.  

New Year Eve and New Year 2023: We had a New Year Eve dinner at the Altitude Restaurant, Shangri La Sydney Hotel. The restaurant’s selling point is its panoramic views. Located on the 36 levels above the Sydney harbour, it offers sweeping floor-to-ceiling views of Sydney Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House in fireworks foray. We had a sumptuous 8-course dinner paired with wine. The food portion was so huge that we had to pack the steak, the duck and all the petit fours. The atmosphere with count-down and music, and the fireworks were wonderful. Given its price, the dinner is indeed something I would only take once in my lifetime. Anyway, it is unforgettable as it was the first time Alan, Lawrence, Wini, Geoffrey and I spent New Year Eve and celebrated New Year together.

January 2- 9: My cousins Geoffrey and Wini and family left on January 5 and Lili the following day. Lawrence, Sally, and I stayed on a few more days. Alan insisted on taking us to see a few places including the Sydney Harbour National Park, Manly, Mona Vale Rockpool and Featherdale Sydney Wildlife Park. As Alan has some health issues, we all did not want him to get overtired. We were, however, glad to find him energetic and in good spirits.

January 10: Lawrence and Sally flew to Kuala Lumpur just a few hours before my flight to Hong Kong.  I got back just in time for the second semester.

Remarks: This trip is a very special trip for Lawrence and I: we want to celebrate Alan’s 70th birthday. To be able to celebrate together with Wini and her family and Geoffrey is a blessing. This means a lot to Alan. We all wish Alan health and happiness.

Categories: Australia & South Pacific | Comments Off on New Year in Sydney December 25, 2022- January 10, 2023

Germany (3) July 31 July – August 21, 2022

August 14: Berlin 

Today was Sunday. I strolled through a small part of the leafy and peaceful Tiergarten to reach the historical Brandenburg Gate. I had brunch in Restaurant Berlin Mitte on Unter den Linden. A wonderful relaxing morning.

In the afternoon, I attended a concert held in the Kopenick Palace, a Baroque water palace of the Hohenzollern electors of Brandenburg built on an island in the Dahme River.  Though without knowledge about music, I enjoyed the performance of the Trios of Classic and Romantic by a small group of musicians – Beethoven and Hayden Quartet Berlin. The garden is leafy and green: I enjoyed the beautiful outdoor setting by the river instead of visiting the museum inside the palace.    

August 15: Potsdam

I visited Potsdam in 1990 and came to discover its former glory. Potsdam,  sitting on the River Havel, is the capital and largest city of the German State of Brandenburg.  Being the residence of Prussian kings and German emperors until 1918, it was well-planned and intended as “a picturesque, pastoral dream” with a balance of architecture and landscape. The city with over 1000 years of history, is known for its palaces, lakes and overall historical and cultural significance. There are numerous landmarks that include parks and palaces of Sanssouci, Germany’s largest heritage site. It was the location of the Potsdam Conference in 1945 after the WWII where a decision was taken to divide Germany into two.

Potsdam is only 25km from Berlin. I had a lovely breakfast with views of the majestic centre dominated by the Old Market Square, the marble Obelisk, the St. Nicholas Church (1830-1837) and several historical buildings. The area was bombed and badly damaged during WWII. The church was rebuilt and re-consecrated in 1981. destroyed before spending a morning at the Museum Barberini opened in 2017. The gallery exhibits Plattner’s collection of art from the former German Democratic Republic and special exhibitions ranging from Old Masters to contemporary art with a focus on impression including works of Rodin, Monet and Edvard Munch. I fully enjoyed the exhibits which had detailed information on both the artists and the works and the special exhibition with four virtually unknown paintings by Monet.

In the afternoon, I walked to the Sanssouci Park (a World Heritage property) with an area of about 300 hectares which is described as garden art at the highest level.  It was first built in 1740s by Frederick the Great as a summer retreat. Later King Friedrich IV had the garden between the private Sanssouci Palace  and the New Palace significantly expanded. The landscaped park was interwoven with French pleasure garden, natural scenes, and magnificent buildings of classicism and romanticism. It is expansive and I had time only to stroll around a small part of the park and visited the a few gardens, the Chinese Tea House, and a few buildings  show a mix of European and Chinese architecture. It was so dry that the grass was brown and looked strangely eerie. Suddenly the sky darkened and it started to rain. I was caught in the rain and decided to leave without visiting the palace. I had Vietnamese noodle near the iconic Brandenburger Gate before catching a train back to Berlin.

August 16: Hamburg & Lübeck 

The train from Berlin to Hamburg only takes about two hours. I like this city after my first visit in 1980. This time, I spent time on foot re-discovering the glory of this great port city in daylight and at night. I also used it as the base to visit Lübeck and Bremen.  

Lübeck, a famous Hanseatic city, former capital city of the Hanseatic League, a commercial and defensive confederation of the most prominent and important cities along the Baltic Sea and the North Sea. While the importance of the league waned from the 16th century, Lübeck continued to thrive. The old city and its important structures have largely escaped bombs during the World War II. The Holsten Gate– a brick Gothic gate of the 15th century is the city’s icon. The skyline of the old town is dominated by the churches of St. Mary, St. Giles, St Peter and St Jacob and the Cathedral. The old town is studded with historical buildings and cobblestone streets. It is also famous for marzipan.

I  arrived Lübeck before 1 pm. There were a lot of tourists and I found the heat unbearably. As I was not in a mood of walking, I went to a restaurant known for seafood and paid 18 euro for a fish soup which was average. Then I spent considerable time in the Hanseatic Museum (9 euro entrance fee). I  had to wait till 3:45pm for an entry as only 25 persons are admitted for a discovery tour an hour! It is interesting with interactive exhibits. I visited the castle friary with a cloister while waiting. By the time I left the museum, it was too late to visit the hospital and most of the churches which closed at 6 pm. Anyway, I enjoyed strolling aimlessly looking at the picturesque townscape with timber-houses and gardens.  The market square is very impressive 

August 17: Bremen

Bremen is the largest city on the River Weser, the longest river flowing entirely in Germany and the capital of the German State Free Hanseatic City of Bremen. Bremen’s port together with the port of Bremerhaven at the mouth of the Weser is the second largest port in Germany after Hamburg. It has been a major cultural and economic hub of Northern Germany. Its City Hall and the Bremen Roland are World Heritage properties.

Bremen is a thriving city. I joined a guided tour (8 euro) to see the Town Hall which was built in the early 15th century while a new part was added last century. There is a famous wine cellar holding the largest and a large storage of the best German wines. A Roland statute stands in front in the market place. After lunch in the market place, I went to explore the  Schnoor, a small well-preserved area of crooked lanes, houses of fishermen and shippers from the 17th and 18th centuries. Today these buildings are occupied by cafes, shops and art galleries.   

August 18: Hamburg & Dusseldorf

Before taking the train to Dusseldorf, I spent the morning exploring the  Speicherstadt and Kontorhaus District, one of the largest warehouse districts in the world. It still  handles a third of the world’s carpet production, cocoa, coffee, tea, spices, maritime equipment and electronic goods. Building starting in 1883, the Speicherstadt is indeed a maze of canals and bridges, and has been smartly  revitalised with museums, residential buildings, and offices.  I enjoyed exploring the HafenCity, the newest area of Hamburg.

I arrived in Dusseldorf around 6 pm and was delighted to be greeted by Brita, an old friend. She took me to an Italian restaurant in the old city. I had a leisure stay in Dusseldorf before returning to Hong Kong with wonderful dinner with Brita every night. Brita also suggested me visit a gasometer and Essen Zollverein.

August 19:  Gasometer Oberhausen

Today Gasometer Oberhausen is an impressive exhibition space using the the gas facility which was the largest gas facility in Europe. Built in the 1920s and reconstructed after WWII, it is an industrial landmark and an anchor point of the European Route of Industrial Heritage and the Industrial Heritage Trail. I am impressed by the innovating way this colossal facility has been renovated and put into use.  

During my visit, I saw an exhibition on “The Fragile Paradise” (2012-2023). The exhibition showed the beauty of nature and the influence of humans on their environment. I saw many outstanding and award-winning photos on global warming and conservation, many of which have been seen in National Geographic and other magazines. The panoramic view from the top of the Gasometer standing at 117m above ground is impressive.  

August 20:  Essen Zollverein

Today I visited Essen Zollverein– an unusual World Heritage Site which has been named the most beautiful coalmine in the world. Open in 1851, the industrial complex once one of the largest coal mines in Europe, played a significant role in bringing wealth to the Ruhr region. In its heydays, it employed over 600,000 people and was closed in 1986. The site is expansive with many colossal industrial buildings and the permanent exhibition has over 6000 exhibits showcasing the fascinating archeology and history of the industrialization of the Ruhr region. Worth visiting!

I spent the rest of the afternoon with Brita leisurely visiting gardens and had an early dinner. Today I also took a COVID test which had to be done within 24 hours of the returning flight to Hong Kong. Everything went perfectly as Dusseldorf is a very efficient city. I paid only 50 euro for the test which result was available within three hours.

August 21: Dusseldorf

Before leaving Dusseldorf, the capital city of North-Rhine Westphalia and the seventh largest city in Germany, I spent the morning touring the city for the first time. I walked from the King’s Alley,  Hofgarten (old city park), all the way to the old town and the River Rhine stopping all major spots including the striking Performing Arts Theatre designed by architect Bernhard Pfau and opened in 1970 with modern architecture, the Town Hall and the St Lambertus Basilica founded in 1288. I met a nice Vietnamese who showed me his house which dated back to the 16th century.

I took an afternoon train to Frankfurt and flew back to Hong Kong for a seven-day quarantine in a hotel near my flat. All in all, I had a most wonderful long journey since the onset of COVID in 2020.  

Categories: My Europe trips | Comments Off on Germany (3) July 31 July – August 21, 2022

Germany (2) July 31 July – August 21, 2022

August 9: Baden-Baden & Leipzig

Before taking the 2:31pm train to Leipzig, I took a leisure stroll through the elegant spa town before visiting the Frieder Burda Museum, a beautifully designed modern museum.  I spent over two hours looking at the paintings and exhibits of the modern era. I had a light lunch at the Casino terrace: a glass of Reisling and a fresh pasta cost only 21 euro. Great value for the quality of food and atmosphere! 

I got on an IC train and had to change in Frankfurt. The trains were very crowded.  When I arrived in Frankfurt, I found that the connecting train to Leipzig would be delayed for over an hour! I escaped to a bar which was empty. I took a beer and was relieved when the train finally set off after 5:16 pm. I arrived in Leipzig after 8pm. Ibis Hotel is not far from the station.  

Leipzig, Germany’s eight most populous city with over a population of 600,000, has been a major centre for trade, culture, learning and music. The city was founded in 1160. Johann Sebastian Bach (1685-1750) and Felix Mendelssohn (1809-1847) both lived and worked in Leipzig. The Oper Leipzig founded in 1843 is one of the most prominent opera houses in Germany. Leipzig University founded in 1409 is one of the oldest universities. Leipzig is the main seat of the German National Library, the seat of the German Music Archive and the German Federal Administrative Court. It has also played a significant role in precipitating the fall of communism in Central and Eastern Europe in 1989.  

I strolled around the old town. A live band was playing in the well-lit up market place in front of the Old Town Hall, a landmark of Leipzig in Renaissance style.  There are numerous eateries and pubs. People were drinking, enjoying the music, dancing and soaking in the atmosphere. I seldom go out in the evening. But I find Leipzig at night charming. The old town is a gem with beautiful renaissance and baroque architecture.  I am most impressed by the merchant houses and passages with beautifully decorated shops. 

August 10: Leipzig & Dresden

I spent seven hours exploring the old town. I started at the Riquet Coffee House. The trademark of the company is two copper elephant heads that  frame the front door of the coffee house. The company has trading tradition with East Asia and the Orient since 1574. The interior decorations and architecture of the building in Art Nouveau style, are exquisite with oriental characteristics.  

After having a nice coffee, I walked to the famous St Thomas Church believed to be the church of the Augustinian monastery founded in 1212. The church is now in Neo-Gothic style, stripped off the baroque style in Bach’s tenure as Cantor of Leipzig (1723-1750). In 2000, it celebrated the 250th anniversary of Bach’s death (Bach was buried in the church). Martin Luther preached here in 1539. The church boys’ choir is of international fame.

I strolled to the New Town Hall which main tower standing at 114.8m is the tallest city hall tower in Germany and then the August Plaza which is dominated by the Oper Leipzig on its northern edge, the University of Leipzig on the western side, and the Mendebrunnen (a fountain) on the southern side.  I took Tram 15 to visit the Monument to the Battle of the Nations (which is also known as the 1813 Battle of Leipzig where Napoleon’s French army was defeated. This colossal imposing monument in a pyramidal shape measuring 91m tall and containing 500 steps to a viewing platform at the top, was completed in 1913 to commemorate the 100th anniversary.  

When I was back to the plaza, I stopped at the University of Leipzig, looking at the new Paulinum which stands at the site of the old university church – St Paul University Church which was destroyed in 1968. I am most impressed by its bold architecture which embraces the ruins and modernity. Famous alumni include Angela Merkel, Friedrich Nietzche, Richard Wagner, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe etc.   

The last place I visited today was St Nicholas Church first constructed in 1165. Its Gothic hall was constructed in the 16th century with a baroque tower added in the 18th century. In 1989, Monday demonstrations began subsequently becoming the centre of peaceful revolt against communist rule.

I like Leipzig which has attractive eateries of all price ranges. I saw a few Indian restaurants and decided to take a lamb biryani and had a delicious  lunch! I took the 5 pm local train RE50 to Dresden which would be the base for three nights. It was on time but very crowded. Many had to stand all the way. I arrived just before 7pm and stayed at the Pullman Hotel near the train station. 

Dresden, the capital city of the state of Saxony on River Elbe, is Germany’s 12th most populous city. The city heavily bombed during the WWII has been restored and renovated since reunification. It is regained its former glory as a cultural and educational centre. Dresden has some 13,000 listed cultural monuments and eight districts under general preservation orders, is known for its Baroque and Rococo architecture.

I was in Dresden in September 1990 soon after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Vivid images of an eerie and derelict railway station with broken glasses and the sad state of deprivation and ruins in the city centre were still on my mind.  I walked to the old city centre and noticed the remarkable transformation of Dresden since my last visit. There is still plenty of  constructions in the city.  I watched a lovely sunset on the bridge over River Elbe and returned to the hotel after 9 pm.

August 11: Bastei Bridge and Tisa Rocks    

I made a trip to see Bastei, a spectacular rock formation rising 194m above the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. Reaching a height of 305m above sea level, the jagged rocks rising to formed by water erosion over one million years ago, are the major landmark of the Saxon Switzerland National Park. To get there, I had to take a train to Kurort Rathen and a ferry across River Elbe (2.5 euro return).   

It is an easy walk from the landing point to the Bastei Bridge. The entrance fee to visit a former castle linked up with steel walkways is only 2.5 euro.  Views of all directions from the bridge are stunning. I was scared to look down and stand at the edge. I had a most delicious rainbow trout and a beer at the Panorama Restaurant Bastei for only 23 euro. The quality food and views are superb. One day I would like to return and stay at the Berghotel near the bridge with excellent panoramic views! 

I took the short Schwedenlocher route and hike to Amselsee. The rocky path down is incredible with close views of gorge, narrow passages and gigantic stones!  As it was still early, I took the train to Bad Schandau a spa town. Apart from an iconic church in the market square, there is not much. I was tempted to go to the spa. But as I had not bought swimming costume with me, it was not possible! Rathen is another spa town in the area.   

August 12: Gorlitz & Bautzen

Gorlitz bordering Poland is just an hour and a half by train from Dresden. It is a well-preserved town which history began in the 11th century as a Sorbian settlement. It has been under German, Czech, Polish and Hungarian rule with a diverse culture and rich architectural heritage (Gothtic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassical and Art Nouveau). Its various sites have been  used as filming locations. The train station is impressive with blue tiles.

The town is picturesque without too many tourists. I had a lovely stroll from the train station to the old town. Some parts though run-down, are tidy and mostly restored. I did not follow the usual touristic path- I first went down the Hospital Street and arrived at the theatre and cultural museum. I walked round the outer path and finally arrived at the town hall and market square which are filled with beautiful merchant houses of all architectural styles. It has a Baroque museum and Schlesisches Museum. As the explanations are all in German, I decided not to visit.  

I visited the St Peter and Paul Church that dominates the historic old town with its copper-covered high roof and the pair of towers. I also went to the Trinity Church of the Franciscan Order where I learn about the philosophy of Jacob Bohme who was a native.  

I entered the Polish town of Zgorzelec when crossing the bridge over River River Neisse. I had lunch in a Polish restaurant with full views of the imposing St Peter and Paul Church. 

After lunch, I followed the Jacob street to the train station and took the train to Bautzen, the historical capital of Upper Lusatia and an important cultural centre of the Sorbs.  Bautzen was a secret prison for prisoners of conscience during the time of the German Democratic Republic another fantastic medieval town.  I had a leisure stroll in this picturesque medieval town dominated by the Ortenburg Castle built by the House of Zahringen in 11th/12th century to protect the Kinzig Valley and the St Peter’s Church (1220-1497), one of the oldest and largest simultaneum churches in Germany. Today, Catholic and Lutheran altars are located on separate sides of the sanctuary.

August 13:Dresden, Berlin & Brandenburg

I spent a leisure morning strolling in the old city centre of Dresden before taking a EC train to Berlin in the afternoon. It is a pleasant walk from the station to Atlmarkt.  On the way, I stopped at a Saturday market with a lot of handicrafts. I found the Kreuzkirche (the Church of the Cross) most impressive. Set on fire during the bombing of Dresden on 13 February1945,  the church stripped off traditional decorations has been restored with the interior refurbished in its 1955 condition. I sat listening to an organ performance for almost half an hour. 

Dresden’s imperial centre comprising the Frauenkirche, museums, the Theatre square, the Augustus Bridge and Terrace etc is impressive. There were too many local and overseas tourists milling around. The weather was excellent and I spent my time outdoor watching the river flowing by. Then I spent two hours on the train and arrived in Berlin. I stayed in a hotel close to the train station.

As it was early, I took the train to the nearby Brandenburg on the River Havel known for its Gothic, red-brick buildings and served as the capital of the Margravite of Brandenburg until it was replaced by Berlin in 1417.  Today, it is a small town with a relaxing atmosphere. I visited the Cathedral and the Gothic House in the old town (Ritterstrasse 86) dating back to 1425 which is almost in its original structure. I understand it is one of the very few architectural examples of the urban, non-stately, secular brick building style of the Mark Brandenburg 15th century. I saw my first 5.35m high statute of the knight Roland made of sandstone outside the Old Town Hall. The statue was erected in 1474 as a symbol of the town’s independence.  

Categories: My Europe trips | Comments Off on Germany (2) July 31 July – August 21, 2022