Why Bali – Vanuatu on Heritage Adventure 2023
I had booked two expeditions with the Heritage Expedition to explore the coast of Sea of Okhotsk and Kamchatka in May-June 2020. COVID 19 threw the world upside down. A year later the Ukraine war made it impossible to visit Russia. I therefore switched to a one-month long expedition from Bali, Indonesia to the Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands and Vanuatu comprising two legs I.e. Bali to Madang and Madang to Port-Vila .
As I was very busy with my studies and travel to Sydney and Sri Lanka, I did not have time to prepare. As a result, I made two mistakes. First, I redeemed my miles for a ticket to Bali. Without paying proper attention, I ended up spending some twelve instead of five hours to get to Bali via Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Second, I set off without an underwater camera missing the opportunity to capture the captivating marine life in the most pristine waters.
Bali – Madang Expedition (7 – 24 October 2023)
October 7 Saturday: I had to leave home before 6:30am to catch a flight at 9 am and eventually landed in Bali airport around 6 pm. I was late for the welcome dinner at the Hyatt Regency Hotel. The first people I met were Aaron (the expedition leader of the first leg) and Nathan (Aaron’s brother whom I first met during the Wrangle Island expedition and who would lead the second leg); Suzanne (the culture enthusiast), Sue and David from Adelaide. I was exhausted and had good sleep.
October 8 Sunday: There were over 60 passengers on the expedition. Before boarding the Heritage Adventure, my floating home for the next thirty days, I was arranged to join a short cultural tour to Lantangidung Village, a Balinese living compound surrounded by rice fields in Ubud. These Balinese villages nestled in green fields are charming, picturesque, and clean. We visited a few craftsmen who made offerings to deities with flower, flour and bamboo; were engaged in wood sculpture,silver and batik making and oil painting. We also visited Batuan Temple, one of the most beautiful within Tri Kahyangan Village. We had a nice buffet lunch in the Royal Pita Maha Maha Hotel before proceeding to the port for embarkation ready to set sail before sunset. As usual, we had to attend mandatory briefings. I shared a cabin on Level 3 (303) with Vivian and Nicki, both are from Brisbane. They are super nice.
October 9 Monday: Sumbawa Island & Satonda Island
The ship sailed through the Bali Sea and we arrived at Sumbawa Island in the province of West Nusa Tenggara with an area of over 15,000 km2 and a population of over 1.5 million. Our guides were thrilled to have their first group of tourists since COVID. We had a tour of the Pamulang Village which is tidy, simple and clean. All timber structures elevated above ground to permit water movements during monsoon season, are adorned with lovely plants. We were invited to visit one of the huts. Apart from a few mattresses on the floor and bowls and pans in the kitchen, there is not much else. Anyway, the people look happy.
Then we watched a water buffalo race where the rider perching on an A-frame structure behind two joined buffalos, had to race down a water-flooded rice paddy field while trying to steer them over a stick placed in the mud. Traditionally this event was a celebration at the end of the harvast, local entertainment and a fun way of tilling the muddy floor of the paddy. Thijs and Gavin from the boat joined the race. Many participants were unable to control the buffaloes, lost balance and fell off. The animal lovers were not pleased and considered the animals were cruelly treated.
Our final stop was the iconic and impressive wooden Old Palace of Dalam Loka one of the largest wooden structures in the world. Dating from 1885 (during the reign of the 16th sultan of the Dewa Dalam Bawa Dynasty), it was made using wooden slotting joints and without any nails.
In the afternoon, we snorkeled and swam at the Satonda Island with a large crater lake in the center. I walked to the lake and had a dip before returning to the beach and snorkeled for an hour. I was delighted to watch a large lion fish for some 15 minutes: we looked each other in our eyes. Magical! I had my first snorkel of this expedition on 9 October. By the time I disembarked on November 8, I must have snorkeled over twenty times.
Marine Life
As of 2020, there are 2,175 identified separate coral species which can be classified as hard corals which form reefs by a calcium carbonate base with polyps with 6 stiff tentacles and or soft corals which are pliable and formed by a colony of polyps with 8 feather-like tentacles. I have seen plenty of hard (stony) corals- cabbage, lobed, table, boulder brain different colours, cactus, finger, star column, mushroom, elk-horn, stag-horn, cauliflower, whorls of chalice coral, pillar, tiered coral and cup coral. For soft corals, I can identify tan leather, Dendronephthya soft coral, sea fans, stinging Hydroid, mushroom leather, sea plumes, tree soft corals, spiral wire coral, sea whip etc. There are plenty of colourful sea worms (feather duster), sea slugs (Nudibranch), feather stars, sea urchin, sea cucumber, sea stars and tunicates.
October 10 Tuesday: Komodo Island & Pink Beach
We arrived at the Komodo Island with dry parched hills and a backdrop of a spectacular skyline of cones and ridges. It is the largest island in the Komodo National Park, an UNESCO World Heritage Site that I visited in June 2018 where I saw eleven Komodo Dragons (the largest lizard in the world). There are around 1,500 dragons on the island. I joined a birder group led by Frank, an ornithologist. In addition to seeing half a dozen dragons, I saw the Yellow Crested Cockatoos, Oranged-footed Scrubfowl, Tenggara Whistler, Flores White-eye, Flame-breasted Sunbird, Flying Lizard, and Green Tree Snails. In the afternoon, we snorkeled at the picturesque Pink Beach which I had spent a lovely afternoon during my last visit. The pink tinge is caused by Foraminifera, the shells of tiny marine creatures. I found the beach not as pink as before. But with snorkel gears, I could see the beach is full of soft and hard coral and tropical fish including Sergeant-majors, Butterflyfish and Clownfish.
October 11 Wednesday: Kodia & Koja Island
We reached Koja (a small village) to Kodia Island (the main island) along the northern coast of the Flores. We were by a group of school girls and boys with a welcome dance. The villagers enthusiastically showed us around the village which houses had been all destroyed by tsunami except a rocky top which is now a pilgrimage site (74 steps). From this vantage point, I had excellent views of the island, surrounding coral reefs and the 800-metre long causeway constructed by hand and opened in 1978 so that kids could walk to school on Kodia Island. The fit ones walked across the causeway to visit a school. As I am slow, I returned to the boat before 11 am in order to take a reef snorkel. The beautiful clear water with colourful coral is most impressive. But I did not see as many big fish as the day before.
In the afternoon, we had three lectures on birds, tourism in Wakatobi and tidal passage. I always enjoy continuous education opportunities.
Thursday, 12 October Wakatobi and Hoga Island
I had my first sight of the bajo (sea gypsies/once nomadic sea dwellers) at the Sampela Village on the Hoga Island, Wakatobi. The village has a Muslim population of over 2,000 whose wooden huts are built on stilts. Sanitation is poor: all human waste goes to the sea. We had an interesting zodiac cruise where we could observe the locals carrying on their daily life. We then walked around the village and I was glad to find a simple but clean clinic. I also met a group of teenage girls who looked cheerful and happy.
We had wonderful time snorkelling on the Kaledupa Island Reef with seagrass and abundant marine life: large Chocolate Chip Sea Stars, hard and soft corals, giant clams, Anemones (clown fish), Christmas Tree Worms. I did see lots of colourful coral fish and impressive massive corals.
In the afternoon, we had a good lecture by Frank on birds and another by Courtney on marine life.
October 13 Friday: Buru Island
I watched sunrise over the soaring peak of the Buru Island, the third largest island within the Maluku Islands. It was only the third time the island was visited by an expedition boat. Religious affiliation is evenly split between Christianity and Islam. It was occupied by the Japanese during WWII and former president Suharto built a prison holding thousands of political prisoners during his New Order administration in the 1960s-1970s.
As I did not feel and sleep well (possibly because of the swell), I vomited twice before breakfast. Though I was not in top form, I participated in the land programme after a zodiac cruise along the limestone coast of Buru. We explored the mangroves, saw large freshwater springs erupting from the limestone cliffs and underwater, as well as dense canopies. The morning lights were magically.
Then we landed in the Pasir Putih Village where we were greeted warmly with welcome dance. Local guides showed us the village. Houses are built on land in bricks and cement as well as traditional bush materials. There are also some houses built on stilts. The village seems well-provided with wells and water taps. I noticed the change of architectural styles of the houses.
We snorkeled off the Bird Island before lunch. When the expedition team learned about my nausea and vomits, they whisked me off to isolation for 24 hours (Room 423). I later learned that several passengers had problems gastro problems. For precaution, they isolated anyone with symptoms though I was quite sure that my nausea was probably due to the sea conditions and lack of sleep. Anyway, I enjoyed the temporary solitude and had a good sleep.
October 14 Saturday: Seram Island
Today, the boat made an inaugural visit to Seram Island with an early morning excursion to a low land forest in the Manusela National Park followed by village visit. As I was in isolation, I could only watch others getting off the boat!
Around 10 am, I asked the onboard doctor to release me from isolation. After checking, she allowed me to come out of the room. Unfortunately, as all the expedition staff were in the park and out of reach of the radio, I had to wait till noon when the first zodiac took passengers back to the boat. I was glad that I still had some 40 minutes roaming freely in the tiny Rumah Olatto Village where I saw an Ebenezer Church, the first church I saw during this journey. The village with some 100 families and 400 people, is super clean and tidy. Apparently, the owner of the resort, a supporter of the church and the village is building a new house for a pastor.
In the afternoon, we snorkeled at an Eco Resort where we found several endemic orchids and plants. Corals are not as extensive and spectacular as previous days: some seemed to have been destroyed by storm. Suzanne gave a fascinating lecture on the Sultans of Spice. I watched the best sunset since we set sail.