Iceland and Greenland are amazing with magnificent landscape and unique history. I like them and have visited both of them several times. This May I returned as I signed up for a 14-day expedition to East Greenland on Le Charcot 14-28/5/2026 while on a Northwest Passage with Ponant in August 2024. Before boarding the boat, I joined a three-day tour in Iceland.
May 9 – 10 Hong Kong – Paris – Reykjavik
I flew with Air France with Maria who was also on the Northwest Passage expedition. We departed Hong Kong at 10:20 pm and arrived in Charles de Galle Paris before 6 am on May 10. We had to wait eight hours for a connecting flight on Icelandic Air to Reykjavik. The plane took off after 2 pm and arrived in Reykjavik around 3:30 pm local time. We took the Flybus to the bus terminal before taking a shuttle bus to the Exeter Hotel. We were exhausted and went to bed after having a light meal. I had not laid down to sleep for some 50 hours.
May 11 Iceland’s Golden Circle
I had a good sleep and was ready for action. We checked out and left the suitcase in the hotel. Soon after 8:30am, we were met by Philip, a guide – cum -driver of Nice Travel Iceland at Bus Stop 4 (opposite the hotel). We had a full bus with 17 guests. Philip came from Poland six years ago and fell in love with the country that he decided to stay. He is energetic and sociable. We followed the Golden Circle scenic route that I had visited before. Our first stop was the Thingvellir National Park where we spent over an hour walking through the rift valley. Once again, I was thrilled to see the spectacle of continental plates tearing apart with one foot in America and the other in Europe, on either side of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. Thingvellir is also a place of great historical and cultural significance as it was where Iceland’s first parliament met for a thousand years.
The second stop on the Golden Circle route is Geysir in the Haukadalur geothermal area. On my last visit when I could walk fast, I walked uphill to the various viewing platforms. This time, I only walked a short distance watching the bubbling hot springs especially the Strokkur which erupts every few minutes. Maria and I had lamb steak: it was nice but not hot enough and a bit overcooked.
After Geysir, We had a short drive to Gullfoss – the “Gold Falls”, a two-step waterfall fed by the nearby glacier at Langjokull. As the sun came out, I was delighted to watch rainbow over the waterfall.
The last stop was Kerio, a coloured volcanic crater with the caldera covered with lush banks of velvet-green moss. We had more than half an hour at this spot. As I walked too slowly, I did not follow the trail round the top of the crater. Anyway, the lake looked green from one side and turned turquoise from another side.
By 4 pm we were dropped off at Hotel Ork in Hverageroi, a town known for its vibrant geothermal activity. We met a Chinese couple from Canada who also joined the 3-day tour. Luke recognised me: our path crossed in 1999 and 2000. What a small world! I spent an hour in the hotel’s hot swimming pool and hot tub. I had another good night’s sleep.
May 12 South Coast – Waterfalls, Glaciers & Black Beach
We had a long driving day with a new driver from Morocco today. He was older and more serious. Luckily, we had very good weather with a clear blue sky. We therefore had fantastic views of renowned volcanoes like Hekla, Katla, and Eyjafjallajokull (800,000 year old volcano).
At the first stop, we spent an hour walking along a path with several waterfalls. As I had already walked behind Seljalandsfoss on my last visit, I went straight to see the Gljufrabui Waterall (known as “Canyon Dweller”), which I had never seen. As I had no raincoat on, I did not wade through the stream through the narrow canyon to look at this spectacular waterfall.
We had a quick stop by the roadside to look at photos of the great Eyjafjallajokull eruptions in April 2010 before reaching the 60-metre Skogafoss “Forest Falls”. There is a 370 steps to the viewing platform. I skipped this strenuous climb. Instead I spent time watch this magnificent waterfall with amazing reflections.
We made a stop at Skogafoss before reaching the Dyrholaey (“Door Hill Island”), a peninsula overlooking the black sand beach at Reynisfjara and massive towering stacks and stone arches. I enjoyed the panoramic ocean views. Unfortunately, the puffins that normally nest here from May to August had not arrived yet. What a pity!
We had lunch at the Reynisfjara Black Beach, best known for its stunning stone sea stacks and darkly brooding rock arches. I saw these spectacular hexagonal basalt columns during my last visit. But I found the waves more ferocious this time. It is no longer safe to explore the sea cliffs.
Before setting off on a three-hour drive to our hotel, we had a photo stop at the Myrdal Church perching on a hill top behind Vik. After a break in Vik, Philip drove almost three hours before we reached Hotel Smyrlabjorg.
May 13 Glaciers, Canyon and Lava Field
After a nice big breakfast, we left the hotel at 8:30 am driving some 15 minutes back to Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. As I would be heading to East Greenland, I saw no need for a 45-min glacial safari amphibious boat tour. Instead, Maria and I strolled along the shore enjoying the scenery, watching icebergs, seals and Eider ducks.
Next, we spent half an hour at the Diamond Beach at the mouth of the glacier lagoon. It gets its name from sparkling fragments of multi-coloured icebergs found on the Beach.
The third brief stop was at Hofskirkja Turf Church. Hofkirkja was the last church of this type built in Iceland dating back to the 19th century. This small church rebuilt in the 1950s has a roof made up of deep layers of turf, and is surrounded by moss-covered burial mounds. Atmospheric!
We then visited the Svinafellsjokull, a part of the expansive Vatnajokull Glacier. I walked slowly but without difficulties for about 20 minutes to reach a safe viewpoint for a close-up look at the glacier. Fantastic!
After lunch, we went to the Fjaorargljufur Canyon which I visited for the first time. Visitors can follow a well-path path to view the canyon at three different levels. I walked too slowly and could only reach the second viewing platform. I found it interesting but not spectacular.
The final stop was at Eldhraun (Fire Lava). Apparently the Lakagigar Fires in the 18th century formed this expansive lava field, marking one of history’s most significant volcanic eruptions. Now it is draped in green moss giving it a somewhat surreal appearance. I have seen expansive black lava fields in Iceland, Cape Verde, Canary Islands etc. I can now imagine what these fields might look like a few centuries later.
After a 25-minute break in Vik, we drove two hours and were back to Reykjavik before 8pm. I had a nice 3-day tour with good weather and two nice professional drivers. I have visited some new attractions including the Kerio Crater, Gljufrabui Waterfall, Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Myrdal Church, Fjaorargljufur Canyon and Eldhraun. Each time I return to Iceland, I discover new gems: Iceland is forever endearing!
East Greenland onboard Le Commandant Charcot May 14-28, 2026
I like Greenland and this voyage would be my fifth trip. The first trip was on Polar Star from Svalbard to Iceland sailing along the eastern coast of Greenland possibly in 2007(As I did not keep a journal then, I could not remember when I took this trip). The second and the longest trip was from August 1 to September 2, 2015 including a 6-day stay in Kangerlussuaq, a 18-day Northwest Greenland expedition, and a 10-day Umanak Hike and Sail journey both onboard S/V Rembrandt van Rijn. The third time was with Silversea sailing from Iceland to Newfoundland through the southern part of Greenland from September 20 to November 5, 2019. The last visit was in August 2024 when I took the Northwest Passenger from Kangerlussuaq to Alaska with Ponant. This time I would be only covering a relatively small part of East Greenland.
Day 1 May 14 Reykjavik
Maria and I got onboard Le Commandant Charcot around 4pm. Captain Etienne Garcia greeted all guests at the gangway. I quickly settled down in Stateroom 628 which has facilities for disabled including handrail in the toilet and a seat in the shower cabin. It is handy for me given my current hip problem.
I had a quick tour of this fabulous new ship with the most powerful and modern ice-breaking ability for cruise ships. It made its maiden trip to North Pole in 2021. All common facilities are located on Deck 5 and 9. Theatre KITA, Main Lounge, ILLU Shop and Restaurant NUNA are on Deck 5 while Restaurant SILA, NUAN Spa, indoor swimming pool IMAQ, an outdoor Blue Lagoon, gym and observatory lounge ANORI are on Deck 9. Public areas display lots of modern art works.
We had our first briefing in the theatre by the Captain when all guests (180) were onboard after 6pm. We watched an amusing and informative film as part of the mandatory life-boat drill followed by a life onboard talk. I watched the ship setting sail before going to Restaurant Nuna for my first gourmand dinner with menus designed by Alain Ducasse.
Shortly after 9 pm, the Captain announced through the public address system that there were dolphins and humpback whales on the port side. I immediately went out to watch on Deck 5 and saw them close-up. As I did not have a camera, I returned to my room to put on warm clothes and took my camera. I went out to watch the whales for almost half an hour. As a result I missed the first ten minutes of the “Documentary: Icebreaker Megastructure”, which traces the construction of Le Commandant Charcot. I got a bright orange- colour parker in my room and was ready to brace the freezing Arctic wind. I was tired and had a good sleep.
Day 2 May 15 At sea
We had a busy day onboard. At 9 am we had Alexandre Faunre, Expedition Leader to present the itinerary and the expedition team, followed by mandatory briefings on zodiac safety and Arctic regulations:AECO. Out of curiosity, I attended mandatory briefings those who would like to kayak and join a polar hike. Given my hip problem, all these activities are out of reach for me. At 6:45pm I joined Captain’s Gala Evening when the Captain presented the officers and heads of departments followed by a sumptuous gala dinner. I sat with a Swiss gentleman and a French couple. We had interesting conversations mostly in French. Luckily, I can still comprehend and follow their conversations.
Day 3 May 16 Blosseville Coast
Today, we followed the footsteps of Jules Poret de Blosseville, a French explorer and sailor who set off in 1833 to discover the unexplored part of eastern Greenland abroad La Lilloise. This coast is so distant that only expedition boats can have access.
Shortly after 1 am, the Captain called out “Polar Bear”. We all rushed out and I watched a mom and her cub. We were lucky to have our first sighting of two bears! When they moved away, we all returned to the room. Less than ten minutes later, the Captain called in an excited voice “ Polar Bear”. I was able to observe an adult bear with its prey for a long time (2nd sighting). It was gruesome to watch it tearing the seal up! Survival for the fittest! I took lots of photos and was unable to get back to sleep for a long time.
I attended the first lecture on Greenland by Dimitri Zver who gave a clear and informative talk on the history of the people of Greenland and the country which has a tiny population of 56,000 and an area of over 2.166 million square kilometres, and gained self-rule under the Kingdom of Denmark since 2009.
Alex briefed us about the afternoon activities with zodiac cruising. I and my two friends was assigned to the Gold Activity Group and we had our turn around 3:30pm. The weather was improving and we were captivated by the enchanting landscape and scenery of Steward O with perfect reflections of mist, the ever-changing colours of the sky, the mountain ranges, glaciers, ice floes and icebergs.
The sun soon disappeared and it was getting windy and cold towards the end of our first zodiac cruise of this voyage. We got close to the glacier, saw a couple of icebergs and listened to the naturalistic explaining about the glacier and sea ice. I was glad to be back to the ship after an hour and a half as I was getting cold hands and feet! After dinner, I watched a show with singing of popular songs from Hollywood movies.
Day 4 May 17 Ittoqqortoormiit
Before 1 am, I was awaken by the Captain’s announcement on bear sighting. I got dressed quickly and spent almost 20 minutes on bear watching (3rd sighting). Half an hour later and before I could fall sleep again, I had the 4th bear sighting with a mom and her cub (1:44 – 2:04 am). We could not have asked for more! But I had difficulties to go to sleep thereafter.
At 8:45 am, Expedition leader Alex told us we would arrive in the afternoon in Ittoqqortootmiit located at the entrance to the longest system of fjords in the world. We would spend three days in this village which has a small population of 350. In the morning, Anaelle gave a good talk on “A Year in the life of an Arctic Whale”. She focused on the humpback whale. A good revision for me. The ship got itself into the packed ice about 1.5km from the village.
My scheduled visit to the village was at 3:50pm. Maria, Heidi and I travelled in style with a dog sledge! Though I had joined a walking group at relax pace, I was walking too slow for others. Hence, I decided to leave the group when they started to walk uphill to visit a school. Instead, I sat with five locals and asked them about life in Ittoqqortoormiit. Two men were more chatty, while the ladies looked on intently. The men are obviously proud of their fishing and hunting tradition: one told me he loved winter as they could hunt. He said they had been hunting narwhal in a nearby fjord. Anyway, they seemed happy to sit out to enjoy the warm sun of the spring. Then, I strolled on my own meeting half a dozen children playing outdoor, passing by a clinic, and a home for the elderly. I walked past a hunter’s house with many skins drying on a rack. But I missed the sledge nearby with a head of a narwhal!
We were told to walk back to the ship after the village visit. When a member of the expedition team saw me, he asked whether I would like to take a ride on snow mobile back to the ship. I accepted with gratitude. Even Heidi and Maria took some 40 minutes to walk back to the ship. Before dinner, I watched a movie “A Polar Adventure, Jean-Baptiste Charcot”. It was the first time I learned about Charcot (1867-1936), the great French explorer.
I joined five new friends for dinner with three having Hong Kong connections. Alison and Neil have been working and living in HK since 1990s, while Laurie lived in Hong Kong when she was young. What a small world! After dinner, I watched the “Tango Soul” Show.