Iceland and Greenland are amazing with magnificent landscape and unique history. I like them and have visited both of them three times. This May I returned as I signed up for a 14-day expedition to East Greenland on Le Charcot 14-28/5/2026 while on a Northwest Passage with Ponant in August 2024. Before boarding the boat, I joined a three-day tour in Iceland.
May 9 – 10 Hong Kong – Paris – Reykjavik
I flew with Air France with Maria who was also on the Northwest Passage expedition. We departed Hong Kong at 10:20 pm and arrived in Charles de Galle Paris before 6 am on May 10. We had to wait eight hours for a connecting flight on Icelandic Air to Reykjavik. The plane took off after 2 pm and arrived in Reykjavik around 3:30 pm local time. We took the Flybus to the bus terminal before taking a shuttle bus to the Exeter Hotel. We were exhausted and went to bed after having a light meal. I had not laid down to sleep for some 50 hours.
May 11 Iceland’s Golden Circle
I had a good sleep and was ready for action. We checked out and left the suitcase in the hotel. Soon after 8:30am, we were met by Philip, a guide – cum -driver of Nice Travel Iceland at Bus Stop 4 (opposite the hotel). We had a full bus with 17 guests. Philip came from Poland six years ago and fell in love with the country that he decided to stay. He is energetic and sociable. We followed the Golden Circle scenic route that I had visited before. Our first stop was the Thingvellir National Park where we spent over an hour walking through the rift valley. Once again, I was thrilled to see the spectacle of continental plates tearing apart with one foot in America and the other in Europe, on either side of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. Thingvellir is also a place of great historical and cultural significance as it was where Iceland’s first parliament met for a thousand years.
The second stop on the Golden Circle route is Geysir in the Haukadalur geothermal area. On my last visit when I could walk fast, I walked uphill to the various viewing platforms. This time, I only walked a short distance watching the bubbling hot springs especially the Strokkur which erupts every few minutes. Maria and I had lamb steak: it was nice but not hot enough and a bit overcooked.
After Geysir, We had a short drive to Gullfoss – the “Gold Falls”, a two-step waterfall fed by the nearby glacier at Langjokull. As the sun came out, I was delighted to watch rainbow over the waterfall.
The last stop was Kerio, a coloured volcanic crater with the caldera covered with lush banks of velvet-green moss. We had more than half an hour at this spot. As I walked too slowly, I did not follow the trail round the top of the crater. Anyway, the lake looked green from one side and turned turquoise from another side.
By 4 pm we were dropped off at Hotel Ork in Hverageroi, a town known for its vibrant geothermal activity. We met a Chinese couple from Canada who also joined the 3-day tour. Luke recognised me: our path crossed in 1999 and 2000. What a small world! I spent an hour in the hotel’s hot swimming pool and hot tub. I had another good night’s sleep.
May 12 South Coast – Waterfalls, Glaciers & Black Beach
We had a long driving day with a new driver from Morocco today. He was older and more serious. Luckily, we had very good weather with a clear blue sky. We therefore had fantastic views of renowned volcanoes like Hekla, Katla, and Eyjafjallajokull (800,000 year old volcano).
At the first stop, we spent an hour walking along a path with several waterfalls. As I had already walked behind Seljalandsfoss on my last visit, I went straight to see the Gljufrabui Waterall (known as “Canyon Dweller”), which I had never seen. As I had no raincoat on, I did not wade through the stream through the narrow canyon to look at this spectacular waterfall.
We had a quick stop by the roadside to look at photos of the great Eyjafjallajokull eruptions in April 2010 before reaching the 60-metre Skogafoss “Forest Falls”. There is a 370 steps to the viewing platform. I skipped this strenuous climb. Instead I spent time watch this magnificent waterfall with amazing reflections.
We followed the coast road and reached the Dyrholaey (“Door Hill Island”), a peninsula overlooking the black sand beach at Reynisfjara and massive towering stacks and stone arches. I enjoyed the panoramic ocean views. Unfortunately, the puffins that normally nest here from May to August had not arrived yet. What a pity!
We had lunch at the Reynisfjara Black Beach, best known for its stunning stone sea stacks and darkly brooding rock arches. I saw these spectacular hexagonal basalt columns during my last visit. But I found the waves more ferocious this time. It is no longer safe to explore the sea cliffs.
Before setting off on a three-hour drive to our hotel, we had a photo stop at the Myrdal Church perching on a hill top behind Vik. After a break in Vik, Philip drove almost three hours before we reached Hotel Smyrlabjorg.
May 13 Glaciers, Canyon and Lava Field
After a nice big breakfast, we left the hotel at 8:30 am driving some 15 minutes back to Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. As I would be heading to East Greenland, I saw no need for a 45-min glacial safari amphibious boat tour. Instead, Maria and I strolled along the shore enjoying the scenery, watching icebergs, seals and Eider ducks.
Next, we spent half an hour at the Diamond Beach at the mouth of the glacier lagoon. It gets its name from sparkling fragments of multi-coloured icebergs found on the Beach.
The third brief stop was at Hofskirkja Turf Church. Hofskirkja was the last church of this type built in Iceland dating back to the 19th century. This small church rebuilt in the 1950s has a roof made up of deep layers of turf, and is surrounded by moss-covered burial mounds. Atmospheric!
We then visited the Svinafellsjokull, a part of the expansive Vatnajokull Glacier. I walked slowly but without difficulties for about 20 minutes to reach a safe viewpoint for a close-up look at the glacier. Fantastic!
After lunch, we went to the Fjaorargljufur Canyon which I visited for the first time. Visitors can follow a well-path path to view the canyon at three different levels. I walked too slowly and could only reach the second viewing platform. I found it interesting but not spectacular.
The final stop was at Eldhraun (Fire Lava). Apparently the Lakagigar Fires in the 18th century formed this expansive lava field, marking one of history’s most significant volcanic eruptions. Now it is draped in green moss giving it a somewhat surreal appearance. I have seen expansive black lava fields in Iceland, Cape Verde, Canary Islands etc. I can now imagine what these fields might look like a few centuries later.
After a 25-minute break in Vik, we drove two hours and were back to Reykjavik before 8pm. I had a nice 3-day tour with good weather and two nice professional drivers. I have visited some new attractions including the Kerio Crater, Gljufrabui Waterfall, Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Myrdal Church, Fjaorargljufur Canyon and Eldhraun. Each time I return to Iceland, I discover new gems: Iceland is forever endearing!
East Greenland onboard Le Commandant Charcot May 14-28, 2026
Day 1 May 14 Reykjavik
Maria and I got onboard Le Commandant Charcot around 4pm. Captain Etienne Garcia greeted all guests at the gangway. I quickly settled down in Stateroom 628 which has facilities for disabled including handrail in the toilet and a seat in the shower cabin. It is handy for me given my current hip problem.
I had a quick tour of this fabulous and impressive ice-breaker which maiden trip was to North Pole in 2021. All common facilities are located on Deck 5 and 9. Theatre KITA, Main Lounge, ILLU Shop and Restaurant NUNA are on Deck 5 while Restaurant SILA, NUAN Spa, indoor swimming pool IMAQ and the outdoor Blue Lagoon, gym and observatory lounge ANORI are on Deck 9. Public areas display lots of modern art works. (to continue)