Darwin – Adelaide on The Ghan 2-5/8/2025
The Ghan is an iconic passenger train taking about 53 hours to travel 2,979 km between Darwin, Northern Territory and Adelaide, South Australia with three stops at Katherine, Alice Springs and Manguri. As early as the 1800s, discussions began around building a rail line stretching from the south to north of Australia. The first Ghan departed Adelaide in 1929 en route to Alice Springs and it was not until 2004 that a new, modern rail line was built stretching all the way from Adelaide to Darwin. It has been considered one of the world’s greatest passenger trains.
I love train journeys and my longest train journey was from London to Hong Kong in 2010. Owing to good luck and conditions, my agent booked me a Gold Single cabin on The Ghan on 2 August (right after the Kimberley Coast expedition) followed by three nights’ hotel stay in Adelaide including a day trip to Barossa Valley. What a perfect fit!
Day 1 Darwin – Katherine
I got up before 6am after a sleepless night and walked to Hilton Darwin to board a bus at 6:45 am to the train terminal. I was excited to step onto Carriage A of The Ghan shortly after 8 am and walk into my cabin (No 3) which is compact, simple and clean with a sofa turned into a bed in the evening. There are 16 single cabins, four toilets and two showers for shared use in Carriage A. I had to walk through Carriages B, C and D to reach the lounge and dining car. Many passengers would spend most of the time in the lounge enjoying full views and unlimited supply of drink (tea/coffee/wine/beer etc).
Life on the train is well-organised. Most of the staff I met are young, energetic, friendly and efficient. All passengers were given a daily activity sheet and a card showing the off-train activity they had signed up. Today, the highlight was the Nitmiluk Gorge. I was assigned to take brunch at 10:45 am and would join the Nitmiluk Rock Art Cruise as I expected to see precious aboriginal rock art. By the time we got off the train at Katherine, it was after 1:30pm. We spent an hour driving to the Nitmiluk National Park to board a boat. For the rock art group, we were put on the last boat and travelled a short distance up the river before getting off at the first gorge. We walked less than 100m to see a couple of clusters of rock art of the Jawoyn People before boarding the boat back to the starting point. We spent more time waiting on the boat for landing! The rock art at this location is much younger than those I have seen at Jar Island and Swift River.
I should have joined the Two Gorge Cruise (2-hour) which requires passengers to get off at the first gorge, walk about 500 metres to take another boat to see the second gorge. I was told the magnificent scenery of the gorge is at its best (where many postcard photos were taken). Anyway, I did see some wildlife during the cruise i.e. sea eagle, heron, dart and crocodile. I was back on the train before 6pm and had a drink in the lounge before having dinner. I sat with two nice Australian ladies of my age. Most passengers on the train were over 60s. As I was tired, I retired to my cabin after having a nice hot shower. Unfortunately, the loud noise and movements of the train kept me awake. It was the first time I could not sleep on a train. I finally managed to a deep but short sleep when the train came to a stop around 2-3 am.
Day 2 Alice Springs
I woke up just before sunrise and had breakfast while watching sunrise. I was in Alice Springs in 2001 on my way to Uluru. Located at the geographical centre of Australia, Alice Springs sits in the shadow of the great MacDonnell Rangers, ancient geological formations in Central Australia that stretch 220km across the Red Centre. This area is home to the Arrernte people. We had a full programme today with a visit to the Simpsons Gap in the morning and the Standley Chasm in the afternoon. At each place, I followed a guide walk and learnt something about the culture of the people, flora and fauna of the area.
Located 18 km west of Alice Springs, Simpsons Gap is an important spiritual place for the Arrernte people. It was visited by surveyor Gilbert Rotherdale McMinn in 1871 while searching for a better route for the Overland Telegraph Line. The gap with towering red rock, a waterhole, spiritual significance and magnificent landscape are very impressive. I was glad we had a picnic lunch in this special location.
After lunch, we drove about 40 km to Standley Chasm, a cultural site fully owned and operated by traditional owners – Angkerle Aboriginal Corporation. We followed a 1.2 km path along a ravine lined with indigenous gum trees before reaching a most impressive and atmospheric 80-m-high chasm. The narrowest point is just three metres wide. The ambience and spiritual feel cannot be described fully: one has to be present and sit in silence to fully appreciate its beauty, soul and significance. I took my time and stayed behind to soak in the atmosphere. On my way out, I was lucky to spot a colourful parrot that spent a couple of minutes on a branch not far from me. It was an amazing experience!
Once I was back on the train, I put on warm clothes and jumped into a coach heading to the historic Telegraph Station for an outback dinner under the star. The sun was setting and I found it atmospheric. I had a short camel ride, a whirlwind tour of the Station, met new friends and enjoyed a wonderful dinner with music. After dinner, we had a star-gazing session looking for the Southern Cross. It was fairly cold and we were all provided a fleece poncho to keep us warm. I left shortly after 8:30pm as I was tired. Tonight, I had the best sleep of the entire journey!
Day 3 Manguri Experience – Coober Pedy
I woke up before 6am and lay on my bed to watch sunrise. After a lovely breakfast, we arrived at Manguri where there was nothing except half a dozen of coaches by the trek. I joined the “Discover the Majestic Breakaways” tour which was fantastic. We had a scenic drive over expansive flat arid land to the Breakaways Reserve with surreal colours, numerous blower trucks and countless man-made mounts with earth dug up from opal mining. We spent over an hour exploring the Breakaways Reserve which is a natural wonder of colourful low hills that seem to have broken away from the high ground. The guide explained that the area was once part of an ancient inland sea and the striking landscape have evolved over time. I found the panorama of ochre, rust, green, brown, white, black mesmerizing. We stopped at three locations for photos and were offered tea/coffee/wine at the second stop. This reminded me of the service on a luxurious cruise.
Our next stop was Coober Pady, which is 846 km north of Adelaide. Often referred to as the “opal capital of the world”, it is also known for its below-ground dwellings that are called “dugouts” built due to the scorching daytime heat. Wille Hutchison discovered the first opal in the area on 1 February 1915 and opal mining soon developed. Mechanized opal mining became more common since 1970s. By 1999, there were more than 250,000 mine shafts entrances in the area. Today, Coober Pedy with a population of about 1,500, supplies most of the world’s gem-quality opal from over 70 opal fields.
We first had a lovely lunch inside the Quest Mine which was no longer in use. After lunch, we toured the mine wandering through the tunnels. I followed a former miner who explained how opal was mined while other guests went to another location to try their luck. One got a large piece of unpolished opal as a souvenir. The final stop was the Umoona Opal Mine and Museum. This was my first visit to an opal mine and I now understand opal is also mined in NSW and Queensland. The guided tour took us through the original underground dugout homes and tunnels. The dugout homes are lovely and cool but they are definitely not my choice: I like fresh air, blue sky and nature.
South Australia
Back in Manguri around 5pm, we were invited to have a drink outdoor while watching sunset. It was so windy and cold outside that most guests retreated to the lounge for a drink. Tonight my dining time was 7pm. I was on put on a table with a Turkish couple who have settled in Woolongong for over 30 years and have 11 grandchildren living in Sydney. As it was the lady’s birthday, the captain of the train who happens to be a Turk presented her with a birthday cake, and we sang her the happy birthday song. Really wonderful!
I had most delicious Australian lamb for dinner. Perhaps, I had too much and could not sleep. Another sleepless night!
August 5 – 7 Adelaide
August 5. I woke up and watched sunrise from my bed for the last time. The landscape had changed with green pasture and farmland. I took some lovely sunrise pictures. We passed by the Snowtown Windfarm, the largest single wind farm in South Australia around 8:20 am. I had my last breakfast in the nostalgic dining car – Queen Adelaide Restaurant. The train pulled into the terminal around 10 am ending my first long distance train journey in Australia.
I had a transfer to Pullman Hotel where I stayed for three nights. I was tired after many sleepless nights since leaving Le Soleal on August 1. I felt happy when settling down in my comfortable and spacious room (after having spent three nights in a compact cabin with an estimated area of about 30 sq ft.). I washed my dirty clothes, went out to buy a mouse (as the writing pad of my computer was dead), and booked a tour for the following day. I spent the afternoon writing travel notes, and was excited to meet up with Iwona and Alex whom I met at the pilgrimage in India organised by Plum Village from 8 to 22 February this year. They took me to a lovely Spanish restaurant and we spent the whole evening chanting about our amazing journey and experience, Buddhist practices and travel. I slept like a baby without cracking noises and constant movements of the train.
Barrage System
August 6. On my first visit to Adelaide some ten years ago, I took a trip to visit Hahndorf (Australia’s oldest German settlement) and the Barossa Valley. This time I picked a different tour to visit Victor Harbour and Fleurieu Peninsula. We had a small group of six with a nice driver-guide. After a casual scenic drive through the picturesque Adelaide Hills, we arrived at the historic Scottish town of Strathalbyn where we had 30 minutes to wander around.
We followed the scenic route to the Murray Mouth to Goolwa Barrage which is part of a dynamic system influenced by the flow of the 2,530km-long River Murray water from Lake Alexandrina via barrage releases and tidal movement from the Southern Ocean. We walked along a barrage and watched wildlife including seals, terns, ducks, pelicans and darts etc.
We continued along the main coastal road passing through Middleton and Port Elliot before reaching Victor Harbour around 12 noon. During the two hours’ free time, I walked across the Causeway to Granite Island and followed the Kaiki Trail – a circuit of the island. The coastal scenery with rocks eroded by wind and powerful waves is magnificent. Originally I planned to take a horse-drawn tram back to town. Unfortunately I missed it and had to cross the Causeway on foot again. I was glad I still had time to go the best fish and chips shop in Victor Harbour for lunch. I had barra fish (but no chips!) before meeting up with the group at 2 pm. I must say deep fried fish with batter is not my cup of tea. But here, I had the best fish with paper thin batter.
We stopped at The Bluff for a panoramic view of the famous Encounter Bay where Matthew Flinders in 1802 met French explorer Nicolas Baudin when both were charting the coast of Australia. The area has rich cultural, historic and trading history. It had also been a significant site for the whaling industry. Today, this area is a popular spot for whale watching.
Next, we stopped at a viewing platform above Kings Beach for both the beautiful view and whale watching. Two whales were spotted earlier in the day. But we had no luck with the whales. On the way back, we went through the popular wine region of McLaren Vale with a brief stop at The d’Arenberg Cube – a quirky 5-level structure shaped like a cube puzzle with art exhibits and a wine-tasting room. We only looked at some open-air art installation without getting a ticket to go inside. I was back in my hotel before 5 pm. A very nice day trip!
August 7. The train package included a full day wine and food tour to Barossa Valley. I met two couples on this tour and all of us were on The Ghan. On the way to the valley, we stopped at famous Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop for half an hour. I had a quick walk around the scenic pond with crystal clear spring water. I also had time to look at a dozen of pheasants and peacocks.
We drove through Seppeltsfield and arrived at Chateau Tanunda which was purchased by John Geber in 1999. He and his Swiss wife renovated the derelict buildings turning them into a charming beautiful chateau. We tasted half a dozen wine by the bar and I bought a tawny port as a birthday gift for Alan, my brother in Sydney. Then we visited Melba’s Chocolates Adelaide Hills shop where I bought some chocolates for Thomas and Asher, boys of my niece Shirley. Then we had a sumptuous 3-course lunch followed by a cheese tasting session. Our guide suggested me try kangeroo steak. Well I am not impressed though the meat is mild and tender. I was also too full to enjoy the cheese board with four different types of cheese for tasting.
The last stop was at Kies Family Wines which I visited on my first visit to Barossa Valley. We again tried half a dozen types of wine! I did not buy any as my small suitcase did not allow me to stuff in another bottle. I had a full day and was back in the hotel around 5 pm.
August 8 -18 Sydney
After a pleasant and relaxing stay in Adelaide, I took a 9:30am-flight to Sydney. I landed in Sydney around noon, took a train to Central and then T9 to Epping where Vicki, my sister-in-law, picked me up. Sydney’s train and metro services have improved so much since my first visit in 1987. I was in Alan’s house in Cherrybrook before 1:30pm. Despite a four weeks’ stay in hospital after a recent operation, Alan looked good despite loss of weight.
I came to Australia primarily to celebrate Alan’s birthday. I managed by luck to add a Kimberley Coast expedition, a ride on The Ghan and a short tour of Adelaide before coming to Sydney. Things had worked out beautifully and smoothly. I was glad to see Alan in good spirits despite his constant physical pain. Vicki has taken great care of Alan for the past three years making sure he has nutritious food everyday. Despite his poor appetite, Alan has a balanced diet with plenty of vitamins.
During my stay in Sydney, I went out only a few times to meet Shirley, Lee and their boys, Karen and family, Adelaide, June (who had handled my booking with Silversea), and Stephaine (who is handling my booking now). My nephew Choi arrived on August 14 with Kieran his 7-year-old son. The house was suddenly very lively with a playful happy kid running around. Alan was happy when surrounded by his family (Vicki, Shirley and family, Choi and Kieran, and I) and good old friends in his favourate Chinese restaurant in Carlingford Village for a sumptuous dinner on August 17 with steamed fish, crabs, chicken, mutton hot pot, vegetables and good wine. We had three tables in a nice spacious room and we ended the party with a big birthday cake and traditional steamed peach birthday buns. Alan thanked everyone for coming and hoped to meet again next year.
As my flight to Hong Kong would depart at 11:30 am on August 18, I said good-bye to Alan and Vicki at 8am. With efficient train service, I arrived at the airport by 9:30am. My plane departed on schedule at 11:30am and I was back in Hong Kong around 7pm. I had a good flight and watched four films! I like day flight as I can be home to sleep in my own bed the same day!
Remarks (to add)